Caring for the clear coat on your car is not easy with all the challenges our cars face every day. After all, we are merely one shopping cart away from permanent damage. To properly maintain the clear coat of your car you need to keep a good coat of wax and sealant on it. This may not sound like a big deal, but the way in which you wax your car does matter, as you can damage the clear coat if you do not do it properly.

For instance, if you hire an auto detail who does not know how to use a buffer, or does not use the right type of application pad when putting on the wax, he can actually damage your car's clearcoat rather than helping you protect it. Also if you go to a carwash and the brushes are not clean they can cause tiny scratches in the clearcoat, which can start the clearcoat decaying.

It's best to wash the car with soap and water by hand using a lamb's wool mitt, gently removing the dirt, then carefully chamois off the remaining water. When completing the job it makes sense to inspect to make sure there is no damage to the clear coat of your car, and then applying a coat of wax. There are special clear-coat-waxes made that are also sealant coatings, many of these are specially made for clear-coat cars.

Once you have a strong sealant coat on your car it makes sense to wax it with regular wax many times over again. This will protect your car from scratches and therefore, protect your automobile's clear-coat from harm. Please consider all this.

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HHO gas generators, fuel cells and car kits can help increase gas mileage. As gasoline or petrol spirals out of control you may be looking at gas alternatives to help reduce costs of operating a vehicle. What if there was and HHO gas plans were available for a car or truck and worked with diesel fuel?

HHO gas has also been called browns gas or hydroxy and has been used for welding applications. HHO gas is one of the best methods to improve gas mileage. HHO generators are sometimes called hydrogen cells or hydrogen on demand but actually produce two gases; oxygen and hydrogen. What you should expect is less pollution from the exhaust of your vehicle.

HHO gas is produced from a process called electrolysis which converts water to hydrogen and oxygen. You probably have seen the HHO car on the news and used for welding but the point here is you get a lot of energy from water with this process and end up with a hybrid water car. You will be supplementing you petrol or gas which should result in increased mileage.

HHO gas should help you see savings of 15 – 40 % or in some cases more including possible increases in horse power and acceleration. Did you ever see this from you favorite gas supplement? You may find Free HHO plans but only the best plans should be used because they often have the detail and pictures you need to properly install the device under the hood of your car or truck.

An HHO generator or car kit is easy to build and should make a nice day or weekend project. A HHO car kit will easily fit under the hood of most cars or trucks and should only take a few hours to install. Once installed it only takes a few minutes of maintenance a month to check the water and catalyst.

It is not uncommon to see free HHO gas plans missing a few details. The best HHO generators plans will show you in detail and have a parts list with pictures and step by step instructions. Very little engine modifications are required. Avoid spending hundreds or thousands on a commercial HHO car kit do it for much less with a good set of plans.

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Automotive scan tools are actually small computers run by programs like all other computers. Computers themselves, when demythologized, emerge from the fog as remarkably simple devices that think in 1's and 0's. They're not that smart. The true "intelligence" and complexity of any machine ALWAYS lies with the program within. When purchasing automotive scan tools and software, evaluate first the frequency with which you either personally or professionally encounter technological and mechanical change, and choose automotive scan tools with software upgrade options that will adapt an existing unit to new industry developments without requiring unit replacement with each advance in technology.

Pro-link scan tools and software offer you countless benefits in application and upgrade capabilities. Keynote features range from diesel engine fault ECU input monitoring, programmable EEPROM data, and comprehensive database storage of all proprietary OEM specifications. Pro link scan tool software packages offer comprehensive diagnostics on Detroit Deisel DDEC I/II electronic engine controller systems, Bendix ABS and ATC systems, Volvo VED 12systems, and even Mack Trucks with V-MAC II and Marine engine troubleshooting for boats! Each of these Pro link software packages proactively anticipates the many complex problems that can arise from increasingly complex technology. You can also expect to benefit from specific diagnostic capabilities such as ECU input and output status monitoring, displayed data parameters in either English or metric readout, user-created custom data lists, and clear diagnostic fault codes and compression testing options.

The first time buyer normally asks the obvious and intelligent question, "When do I know it's time to upgrade my pro link scan tool software?" Need and circumstance determine upgrade requirements more than any generic feedback can advise. Personal vehicle owners normally upgrade their automotive scan tool with new software when they purchase their next vehicle. Professionals face more variables and greater frequency of upgrade because they service multiple vehicles of diverse make and model, and they face industry changes every day as a standard course of business.

Each time the government requires a new safety feature and issues a set of safety compliance standards regulating its performance, vehicle technicians will need to upgrade pro-link scanning tools with software that can effectively diagnose safety devices and proactively identify potential malfunctions. If you run a service shop, make especially certain that your automotive scan tool software reflects the latest safety compliance laws. Not only must you observe these standards due to governing authority, but the problematics of insurance can only harm your business if you neglect to upgrade your software and later find yourself held liable for an accident outdated technology failed to prevent. Please do not assume that this cannot happen to you because it already has to someone in the world today. It does not, however, have to repeat itself in your personal world or the lives of your clients.

It simplifies life and better serves outcome to simply upgrade automotive scan tool software anytime you learn of a feature that specifically addresses a change or new type of problem you encounter. Automotive scan tool software loads into the unit via CD or a plug and play card similar to software and expansions cards on PC's and laptops. The process is simple. The results will astound you and serve you well.

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The MAX-LOCK rear differential upgrade. With over 200% more surface area and 60% more lock-up, the EVO will now rotate better when you get on the throttle versus understeering upon exit of a turn. Think Dukes of Hazard.

How does it drive? AWESOME!!! Finally you can manhandle the EVO and it responds like it should have in the first place. With the increased lock-up the EVO will no longer understeer and actually require some counter steer upon exit much like a RWD car but with the benefits of AWD. With the MAX-LOCK you can use conventional suspension settings and focus on setting up the car for max grip instead of doing crazy things like zero camber, stupid stiff rear sway bars, way too much spring rate and 60psi of rear tire pressure.

Will this make the EVO quicker around the track? YES!!! Autocross EVOs are knocking over a second off every 60 seconds of track length and road racers are achieving quicker lap times due to the ability to use the whole track versus a narrow line and this comes in real handy for those who are racing on a road course with traffic. Another benefit is longer front tire life because you don't have to crank the steering wheel to the point of the front end washing out just to get the EVO to stay off the grass on the outside of the turn. We aren't saying that this upgrade is the end all to making an EVO power-slide out of the turns like a Tokyo drift car but it has proven itself time and time again to be a worthwhile no BS upgrade on the stock suspension or the fancy 4-way adjustable stuff.

How well does it hold up for road racing? How long the differential holds up will mainly depend on your suspension set-up, driving style and track conditions. People who are competively racing in SCCA T2 are getting two seasons worth of use before inspection is required while the daily drivers are reporting that the rear differential is still working strong. Based on my findings, I would expect it to last many years in a daily driver before any service is required.

Turn around time is quick, about 2-3 days.

This service includes:

* all new friction plates
* modified side sheaves
* magnaflux inspection of ring & pinion
* shims
* seals
* adjustment of ring & pinion (if necessary)
* and a fresh painting so it looks like new again.

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I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

A. Things you need to get started:
1. The E4OD and 4R100 transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON ATF [For the 4R100, use MERCON V]. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements.

The 4R70W transmission system holds about 14 quarts of ATF. The 4R70W uses MERCON V, and the MERCON V can be used on older 4R70W transmissions that were factory filled with MERCON.

2. I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
3. Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
4. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
5. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.

B. If you are changing the filter, drain the pan if your pan has a drain plug. If you are not changing the filter, jump to step 4.
1. If you don't have a drain plug, go to step 4 to pump out the pan, preventing an ATF shower! Return here after step 4 and one pass through step 5a.
2. Remove the pan and clean the pan and gasket, including the magnet on the bottom of the pan. Fuzz on the magnet is normal, that's why it is there!
3. Change the filter. It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.
4. Replace the pan, using the reusable gasket.
5. At this point you can drain the torque converter. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
6. To drain the torque converter remove the shield (or the rubber plug in some models) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you also drain the torque converter, then the old ATF will not come out the return line until after the torque converter has filled.

C. If you drained the pan, pour new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube until you have added about as much as you earlier drained from the pan. At this point overfilling by no more than one quart won't hurt anything.

D. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the fluid comes out.

E. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket.� A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
1. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine. Refill through the dipstick tube with the same amount as you just pumped out.

NOTE: If you drained the pan and the torque converter, fluid will not run out until you fill the pan a second time. Run the engine for 30 seconds, then stop and add six more quarts.

F. Repeat step 5 until you have added 19 quarts with of new ATF to the system with an E4OD or 4R100. Repeat until you have added 13 quarts with the 4R70W.
1. At least one time while the engine is running move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.

G. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.

H. Check the fluid level and use the last quart to top off.

I. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.

J. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.

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HP Tuners (www.hptuners.com) VCM Suite software gives professional tuners and enthusiasts people access to tuning parameters on Ford and GM vehicles. Currently VCM Suite supports a limited number of Ford vehicles (2004 – 2007 V8 F150s and 2005 – 2007 V8 Mustangs) but they are working on adding more vehicles to the database.

VCM Editor, the tuning portion of the suite, is a very powerful tool. Because the tool is so capable, it can therefore be dangerous in the hands of someone who isn't familiar with EFI tuning, especially Ford EFI tuning. For this reason, it is recommended to have a professional tuner set you up with a baseline tune, or spending time familiarizing your with the basics and spend a lot of time asking questions. Take your time and experiment with a few simple steps and try them out to see how they impact your vehicle before playing around with additional parameters.

VCM Editor isn't the first tuning software available to end users, but it does fill a niche quite nicely. It offers extensive reach, with access to hundreds of parameters available in the PCM, while presenting this in an interface that is easy to use with items grouped by type. VCM Editor uses a licensing technique which allows you to read and create as many tune profiles as you want from many vehicles. You purchase licenses to actually write the tunes out to a PCM. For instance, you can read your friends ECM to compare its base tune to yours without having to purchase a 2nd license, but if you wish to save modifications back out to his truck you'll have to pony up the bucks for a license.

HP Tuners also has a repository database of tunes but as someone who is experienced I recommend you stay away from using tunes of unknown quality made by people you don't know. You could easily end up causing catastrophic damage to your engine by putting an improper tune in it. At most you might want to use it simply to see what others are doing, perhaps getting a few ideas to try. VCM Editor does not use a handheld tuner. Instead it uses an OBDII to USB interface box.To program your truck you'll need either a laptop or a very long USB cable. The maximum USB cable length is 5 meters (about 16 feet, 5 inches). You can extend this with USB hubs but at some point this becomes unwieldy. For practical purposes if you don't have a laptop this product isn't for you. The software doesn't require much in the way of resources so if you can find an inexpensive, old Windows based laptop it should work for you. The first thing you'll need to do is read the OEM tune from your vehicle. Once you've done this the VCM editor will ask if you want to license it (ie, be able to write it out to the ECM). If you're just getting familiar with the software skip licensing the file.The first thing I did was start up the software and load up the PCM code for the 2007 F150 5.4L I'm going to tune. The PCM code is RXDF4B2. Tuning 101 and drive-by-wire throttle controls of the 2004 – 2008 F150 are very complex and beyond the scope of this article. Rather than showing all the changes (there can be literally hundreds in a good tune), I will focus only giving a very basic changes so you'll have an idea of how this software works.One of the handy things about the software is the window at the bottom of each section which gives handy tips about most available parameters. It won't teach you how to tune, but it will tell you what the table does in a very basic way. I recommend you take one of the tuning training courses available to get you up to speed or purchase a starter field from a reputable tuner. There are books available but none specific to the low level details of Ford tuning at this time.

Let's look at one of the most common changes: spark timing. Many beginners mistakenly change the "Global Spark Modifier" to change base spark timing. This is not something you want to do – at best it gives very gross control over spark advance and could very well get you results that are far less than desirable. It will not give you the results you're expecting. The most common place to address this is in the "borderline knock" table. Click "Engine", "Spark Control" and the "Borderline Knock". For 93 octane add about 6 degrees across the RPM range though you can add a couple of more degrees below 1000 rpm. Depending on fuel quality with some data logging you can get away with more timing advance, but 6 degrees is a good "safe" advance for 93 octane to start.

Here are the before and after screens:

Another thing to address is idle rpm when in gear. Move it up from 525 to 575. This will help throttle response and launch from a stop. For this, click "Engine" then "Idle" and change the "In Gear" idle RPM to 575. You should also raise neutral idle by a similar amount to keep the engine from making a large change in idle speed coming into or going out of gear. You can raise the idle even higher, say 600-620 rpm, but I don't recommend you do this if you do a lot of stop and go city driving because it can have a slight negative effect on fuel economy.

Next, you need to give the knock sensors the ability to add and pull timing more appropriately for 93 octane. Click "Engine", "Spark Control", "Spark Retard" and then "Knock Advance Limit vs RPM vs Load". Set all the fields to 7. Most PCM codes have a decent amount of spark retard they can pull. Make sure the "Spark Retard Limit" is -7 at the lowest loads and -12 starting from a load of .60. If not, adjust accordingly. If you have problems with consistent fuel quality you may want to increase these values. If you decide to decrease them (ie, the engine pulls out spark slower) make sure the advance rate isn't faster! Note that these are not the only tables needed to properly address spark advance and retard, but rather just a sampling of what's available in the software.

This is one of the areas you want to look at when data logging with HP Tuner VCM Scanner software that's part of the package VCM Suite package. Log the spark retard. Anywhere you see retard along the curve you'll need to pull some timing out via the borderline knock table. If all looks good, try adding a half degree where you can and log again. Repeat until you have optimal timing, just below where the PCM retards spark.

Here are the wide open throttle shift points. For naturally aspirated engines I prefer taking the 1-2 and 2-3 WOT shift points up to 5200 RPM and not touching the 3-4 WOT shift point. Shifting into 4th at WOT isn't going to happen on a stock, naturally aspirated truck, the speed is going to be much higher than the vehicle can go. For turbo and supercharged vehicles crank the WOT 3-4 shift way past any speed an F150 vehicle can reach in 3rd, such as 7000 RPM. The reason is that WOT 3-4 shifts are extremely rough on the transmissions and you don't want them to occur. There are plenty of stories out there of folks with improperly tuned truck grenading the transmission with a extremely high speed 3-4 WOT shift. The last thing you want to do on the track is lose your transmission at 140 mph! Additionally, with force induction engines you can also raise the shift points another 50 – 125 rpm to take advantage of the wider torque and horse power curves available.

Now, on to more features. When changing the shift points you need to make sure they do not "overlap" or you'll end up with a vehicle that does a lot of unnecessary shifting. Unfortunately, VCM Editor doesn't handle this in an easy way. The software allows you to pull up shift tables for each upshift and downshift, as well as graph these. Unfortunately I could not find a way to overlay the shift table graphs – this would have made the process much easier. Without it, pay special attention to the numbers. You may want consider loading the numbers into Excel and overlaying them as line graphs to make sure they shift points don't overlap. HP is aware of this issue and I've been told they are looking into solutions.


Without it, pay special attention to the numbers. You may want consider loading the numbers into Excel and overlaying them as line graphs to make sure they shift points don't overlap. HP is aware of this issue and I've been told they are looking into solutions.

VCM Editor allows you to graph most tables. Some, such as the upshift speed, are available as 2D line graphs. Where appropriate, some tables also have the ability to display 3D graphs.

In addition to the full spectrum of various engine, transmission and fueling controls VCM Editor gives you complete control of scalars and flags. For instance, you can change rev limiters, axle ratios, tire size, turn off individual OBDII codes if you plan to drive it off road and don't want the hassle of DTCs setting off the check engine light.

The software has pretty much everything a person needs to create a complete tune for their vehicle. The tables, flags and scalars available are also comprehensive enough for the professional tuner. The software allows you to purchase multiple vehicle licenses so the individual can use it with all his vehicles or the professional can take advantage of the year/model licensing to drive down the cost per vehicle tuned. In fact, you can tune as many 2008 F150s (and/or other year/models you license) was you want for only $699.00 and that includes the hardware.

The data logging software, VCM Scanner, is an extremely nice package when compared to its competition. For instance, the competition allows you to set up a couple dozen items to data log, the item colors and assign handful of them to digital "gauges", while line graphing the logged items along the bottom of the screen. VCM Scanner gives more detailed gauges and graphs:

VCM Scanner, when connected to your truck via a laptop and the OBDII interface, scans your PCM to obtain a list of standard OBDII signals it can log. Additionally, VCM Scanner allows you to custom log other items (PIDs) which are "non-standard" (such as Ford specific signals). Basically, any PID your vehicle can support it should be able to log. This has some positives and negatives. The positive is that you're not locked into only PIDs built into VCM Scanner's database. Any PID you know the number to can be data logged and there's no reason why you wouldn't be able to use this software to data log virtually any OBDII compatible vehicle, not just Fords. The negative is that you must define these, and none of the Ford specific signals are built in. You must have a signal reference available in order to define these. HP Tuners has told me this negative is something they are considering solutions for.
Other companies with data logging supply many Ford signals to log and that's a disadvantage to VCM Scanner, but I've also found with other software there are often signals not available and you cannot customize logging for signals the software doesn't know about. So, setup and data logging with VCM Scanner can be much more thorough but at the cost of some added complexity for non-OBDII standard PIDs.

Conclusions

VCM Suite gives great flexibility for those looking to make changes to their PCMs themselves, has a logical menu structure making things easier for new users and has a fairly complete set of parameters it allows the user to change. HP Tuners has been providing tools for GM users for quite some time and it was nice to see them make their products compatible with Ford PCMs. As the product matures and supports more Ford vehicles I have no doubt the company will become a major player, taking on companies such as SCT when it comes to tools for the end user. If you're willing accept the trade-off of not having a hand-held tuner you'll get a far more powerful tool in return, provided you have the time, talent and desire to learn the intricacies of Ford programming. Further, if you are having your car professionally tuned, and do not require a handheld, you do not have to pay for the handheld. It's not for everyone, but for those who feel the need to control the small details of how their vehicle operates is something worthy of serious consideration.

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Wide tires and serious off-road driving place tremendous demands on all of the steering components. Not the least of these is the power steering pump. Sherm's Bronco is running 36"X14.5 Super Swampers that required very high performance power steering. On a Rubicon trip in 1997, his power steeringpump boiled over and blew the dipstick and fluid out of the pump.

I looked at the Saginaw conversion and found that the pressures, particularly at low RPM, were not as great as the current Ford power steering pumps. It is more compact than the Saginaw unit, is readily available, and bolts directly up to the serpentine bracket.

To combat the heat developed in heavy off-road applications, I felt that more cooling was required than to simply install a pump, I used the inner automatic transmission cooler found in all automatic radiators. I also located a 1990 Ford Taurus 24-finned transmission cooler. I also used braided line to connect all of the power steering pump components. I used a 1992 Ford F-150 high pressure hose that fit perfectly in the Bronco.

After the Ford power steering pump was installed, I routed the return line from the power steering pump into the inner automatic transmission cooler with braided line, from that point I used braided line to connect to the finned cooler. The finned cooler was then connected to the power steering box with more braided line. A single cooler might not operate under the extreme off-road conditions where I wanted it to perform.





The Ford pump has a very large opening to the reservoir and can be easily filled on the trail. It also has a bleed hole in the cap. The cap is secured by locking with a quarter turn of the cap. These pumps are used on everything from Lincoln Continental, the Escort, to the F-250 pickup. This pump and coolers hold a quart and a half of ATF. When driving the Bronco off-road, the finned cooler was lukewarm.

Before using this, or any other high pressure power steering pump, reseal used power steering box, to prevent leakage from the sector shaft and worm gear shaft.

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Features

* KC HiLites HID Off-Road Lights bask upcoming terrain in a flood of intense white light
* Powered by KC HID technology that's tested to be 4 times more powerful than standard off-road lights
* KC HiLites HID Driving Lights come equipped with super low-draw 35w 4200K HID Bulbs
* HID off-road lights boast benefits like whiter light output, minimal amp draw, higher efficiency and longer bulb life
* KC HID Off-Road Lights are available in 5" round housings, 6" round housings, 8" round housings, or 6" x 9" rectangular housings
* Backed by steady steel construction with your choice of a polished, chrome or black powder coat finish (varies by light size)
* Includes KC's unmistakable HID light covers or grid stone guards for protection (varies by light size)
* System includes a fully assembled wiring harness, weatherproof plug connectors and a lighted control switch for easier installation
* Your KC HiLites HID Off-Road Lights System carries KC's outstanding 23-year warranty

Description

When the terrain ahead is wild and unpredictable, don't just shed a little light on it-shine the most light possible! KC HiLites' HID Off-Road Lights System is like a personal intense sun you control the switch for-flip `em on, and all is in sight.

KC HID Driving Lights produce 4 times more intense light than run-of-the-mill off-road lights. The whiter, more efficient light hails from a technology KC adapted from the light towers of hallowed ballparks and football pantheons across America. KC surrounds each light with rugged solid state components, safeguarding your system for decades of use.

KC HID Driving Lights Systems feature a pre-terminated wiring harness with weatherproof plugs and industrial-grade ballasts, which makes installation easy. A flip of the lighted in-cab switch turns the powerful beams on. KC even tops the system with their distinct light covers and protects your HID Fog Lights System with their solid 23-year warranty.
Notes

* Designed to function with a voltage range of 9v to 19v for automotive, commercial and industrial uses.

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How to remove window glass on a 68-72 pickup:
In this article, I'll show you step by step how to remove and replace the interior door panel, window glass, vent window, and window regulator from your 68-72 F-series pickup.Most other pre-97 pickups are similar, but this article concentrates on the 68-72 door style.
Tools Needed:
Phillips screwdriver
Flat-blade screwdriver
3/8 deep socket
3-6 locking extension
Ratchet
open-ended wrench

The first step is to lower the window fully, then remove the window crank and armrest. The window crank is a single Phillips-head screw, while the armrest is held on with three 3/8 headed lag screws. I recommend using a deep socket on a locking extension, since the bolts are quite deep into the foam of the armrest, in holes as shown:



After the armrest is gone, you need to remove the handle and panel. If you have Ranger-style trim, you need to remove that first by prying it off with the flat-bladed screwdriver. If you have the plain steel panels, the screws are already exposed around the edge. The door release handle is held on with two nuts.Remove these and the handle:


Then remove the screws and the panel:


Next remove the Phillips-headed screw and single 3/8 nut circled in red above.There is also a screw on the leading edge of the door above the vent window that needs to be removed. Once these screws are removed, pull the top of the vent window towards the rear of the door, and lift out, along with the forward guide.You will need to maneuver the lower mounting around the weatherstripping by rotating the front of the vent window outwards.

You can now also remove the window glass by sliding forward to disengage from the lift arm, and rotate the front of the glass upwards to fit the lower edge through the opening left by the vent window.

Remove the four 3/8 bolts highlighted in blue above to remove the window regulator mechanism.

Installation is the reverse of removal, just be careful not to drop the window on installation, and be sure the window glass is fully seated in the rear guide before installing the forward guide and vent window.

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A - Amperes

A/C - Air Conditioning

A/CL BIMET - Air Cleaner Bi-Metal Sensor

A/CL DV - Air Cleaner Duct and Valve Vacuum Motor

A/D - Analog to Digital Converter

A/F - Air Fuel Ratio

A/T - Automatic Transmission

A4R70W - Automatic Overdrive Electronic Wide Ration Transmission

AAC - Auxiliary Air Control Valve

AAT - Ambient Air Temperature

AAV - Anti-Afterburn Valve (Mazda)


ABCV - Airbleed Control Valve (Ford)

ABS - Antilock Brake System

ABSV - Air Bypass Solenoid Valve (Mazda)

ABV - Air Bypass Valve

AC - Alternating Current

ACC - Automatic Climate Control

ACC - Air Conditioning Clutch

ACCS - A/C Cycling Clutch Switch

ACD - Air Conditioning Demand Switch

ACON - Air Conditioning On Signal

ACP - Air Conditioning Pressure Signal

ACPSW - Air Conditioning Pressure Switch

ACR - Air Conditioning Relay

ACR4 - Air Conditioning Refrigerant, Recovery, Recycling, Recharging

ACT - Air Charge Temperature

ACV - Air Control Valve

ADU - Analog-Digital Unit

AFC - Air Flow Control

AFM - Air Flow Meter

AFR - Air Fuel Ratio

AFS - Air Flow Sensor (Mitsubishi)

AIR - Secondary Air Injection System

AIRB - Air Bypass Solenoid

AIRD - AIR Diverter Solenoid

AIS - Air Injection System (Chrysler)

AIS - Automatic Idle Speed

AIV - Air Injection Valve

ALC - Automatic Level Control

ALCL - Assembly Line Communications Link (GM)

ALDL - Assembly Line Data Link

ALT - Alternator (replaced with GEN)

AM1 - Air Management 1, AIR Bypass

AM2 - Air Management 2, AIR Diverter

AMB - Ambient

AOD - Automatic Overdrive

AODE - Automatic Overdrive Electronic Transmission

AODE-W - Automatic Overdrive Electronic Wide (ratio transmission)

AP - Accelerator Pedal

APC - Automatic Performance Control

APCM - Auxiliary Powertrain Control Module

API - Application Programming Interface

APS - Absolute Pressure Sensor (GM)

APS - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (Mazda)

APT - Adjustable part Throttle

ARC - Automatic Ride Control

ARS - Automatic Restraint System

ASARC - Air Suspension Automatic Ride Control

ASCII - American Standard for Character Information Interchange

ASD - Automatic Shutdown Relay

ASDM - Airbag System Diagnostic Module (Chrysler)

ASE - Automotive Service Excellence

ASM - Acceleration Simulation Mode

ASR - Acceleration Slip Regulation

ATC - Automatic Temperature Control

ATDC - After Top Dead Center

ATF - Automatic Transmission Fluid

ATM - Actuator Test Mode

ATP - Automotive Telemetry Protocol

ATS - Air Temperature Sensor (Chrysler)

ATX - Automatic Transaxle

AVOM - Analog Volt / Ohm Meter

AWD - All Wheel Drive

AWG - American Wire Gage'

AX4S - Automatic 4-Speed Trans.

AXOD - Automatic Overdrive Transaxle

AXOD-E - Automatic Overdrive Transaxle - Electronically Controlled

B/MAP - Barometric/Manifold Absolute Pressure

B+ - Battery Positive Voltage

BAC - Bypass Air Control Valve

BARO - Barometric Pressure

BAT - Battery

BC - Blower Control

BCM - Body Control Module

BEV - Barrier Equivalent Velocity (crash testing)

BHP - Brake Horsepower

BHS - Bimetal Heat Sensor (Ford)

BID - Breakerless Inductive Discharge (AMC)

BLM - Block Learn Multiplier (replaced with LT FUEL TRIM)

BMAP - Barometric/Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (Ford)

BOB - Breakout Box

BOO - Brake On / Off Switch

BP - Barometric Pressure

BPA - Mechanical Bypass Air

BPCSV - Bypass Control Solenoid Valve

BPP - Brake Pedal Position Switch

BPS - Back Pressure Sensor

BPT - Back-Pressure Transducer

BPV - Bypass Valve (Ford)

BPW - Brake Pulse Width

BSV - Backfire Suppressor (Ford)

BTDC - Before Top Dead Center

BTS - Battery Temperature Sensor

BTSI - Brake Transmission Shift Interlock

Btu - British Thermal Unit

BUS N - Bus Negative

BUS P - Bus Positive

BV - Bowl Vent Port (Ford)

BVSV - Bi-Metal Vent Control Valve

BVT - Backpressure Variable Transducer System (Ford)

C - Carbon

C - Celsius

C.A.R.B. - California Air Resource Board

C3 - Computer Command Control System (GM)

C3I - Computer Controlled Coil Ignition

C4 - Computer Controlled Catalytic Converter System (GM)

CAC - Charge Air Cooler

CAI - Controlled Auto Ignition

CAN - Controller Area Network

CANP - EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid

CARB - Carburetor

CAS - Crank Angle Sensor

CAS - Clean Air System

CAS - Creep Aid System (automatic transmissions)

CASE - Cranking Angle Sensing Error

CBD - Closed Bowl Distributor

CC - Catalytic Converter

CC - Climate Control

CC - Cruise Control

CC - Cubic Centimeters

CCC - Computer Command Control System (GM)

CCC - Converter Clutch Control

CCD - Computer Controlled Dwell

CCD - Chrysler Collision Detection

CCDIC - Climate Control Driver Information Center

CCEI - Coolant Controlled Idle Enrichment (Chrysler)

CCEV - Coolant Controlled Engine Vacuum Switch (Chrysler)

CCM - Continuous Component Monitor

CCM - Central Control Module

CCM - Comprehensive Component Monitor

CCNT, DTC CCNT - Count Code

CCO - Converter Clutch Override

CCOT - Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube

CCP - Controlled Canister Purge (GM)

CCP - Climate Control Panel

CCRM - Constant Control Relay Module

CCS - Coast Clutch Solenoid

CCSP - Carbon Canister Storage/Purge

CCV - Canister Control Valve

CDCV - Canister Drain Cut Valve

CDI - Capacitor Discharge Ignition (AMC)

CDR - Chrysler Diagnostic Readout

CDRV - Crankcase Depression Regulator Valve

CE - Commutator End

CEAB - Cold Engine Air Bleed

CEC - Crankcase Emission Control System (Honda)

CECU - Central Electronic Control Unit (Nissan)

CEL - Check Engine Light

CER - Cold Enrichment Rod (Ford)

CES - Clutch Engage Switch

CESS - Cold Engine Sensor Switch

CFC - Chlorofluorocarbons

CFI - Central Fuel Injection

CFI - Continuous Fuel Injection

CFM - Cubic Feet Per Minute

CFV - Critical Flow Venturi

CHM - Cold Mixture Heater

CID - Cylinder Identification Signal

CID - Cubic Inch Displacement

CIS - Continuous Injection System (Bosch)

CKP - Crankshaft Position Sensor

CKP REF - Crankshaft Position Reference

CKT - Circuit

CL - Closed Loop

CLC - Converter Lockup Clutch (replaced with TCC)

CLCC - Closed Loop Carburetor Control

CLNT - Coolant

CLV - Calculated Load Value

CMFI - Central Multi-port Fuel Injection

CMP - Camshaft Position Sensor

CMP REF - Camshaft Position Reference

CO - Carbon Monoxide

CO2 - Carbon Dioxide

COC - Conventional Oxidation Catalyst (Ford)

COLPAS - Column-Integrated Power-Assisted Steering

COP - Coil On Plug Electronic Ignition

CP - Crankshaft Position Sensor (Ford)

CP - Canister Purge (GM)

CPA - Connector Position Assurance

CPI - Central Port Fuel Injection

CPP - Clutch Pedal Position

CPS - Central Power Supply

CPSOV - Canister Purge Shut Off Valve (Ford)

CPU - Central Processing Unit

CRC - Cyclic Redundancy Check

CRK - Cranking Signal

CRS - Common Rail System

CRT - Cathode Ray Tube

CSC - Coolant Spark Control (Ford)

CSE GND - PCM Case Ground

CSF - Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor

CSSA - Cold Start Spark Advance System (Ford)

CSSH - Cold Start Spark Hold System (Ford)

CTAV - Cold Temperature Actuated Vacuum Switch (Ford)

CTM - Central Timer Module

CTO - Clean Tachometer Output

CTO - Coolant Temperature Override

CTOX - Continuous Trap Oxidizer

CTP - Closed Throttle Position

CTS - Charge Temperature Switch (Chrysler)

CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor

CTVS - Closed Throttle Vacuum Switch

CV - Control Valve

CV - Constant Velocity

CVCC - Compound Vortex Controlled Combustion System (Honda)

CVD - Cylinder Valve Deactivation

CVR - Control Vacuum Regulator (Ford)

CVS - Constant Volume Sampler

CVTC - Continuous Valve Timing Control

CVTS - Continuous Variable Tumble System (engine combustion)

CWM-Ford - Cold Weather Modulator (Ford)

DAB - Delayed Accessory Bus

dB - Decibels

DC - Duty Cycle

DC - Direct Current

DCISCA - DC Motor Idle Speed Actuator

DCL - Data Communication Link

DDD - Dynamic Data Display

DDL - Diagnostic Data Link

DDL - Diagnostic Information Base

DE - Drive End

DEC - Digital Electronic Controller

DEFI - Digital Electronic Fuel Injection (Cadillac)

DEPS - Digital Engine Position Sensor

DERM - Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module

DFCO - Decel Fuel Cutoff Mode

DFI - Direct Fuel Injection

DFS - Decel Fuel Shutoff

DI - Distributor Ignition (System)

DI - Direct Ignition

DIB - Diagnostic Information Base

DIC - Driver Information Center

DICM - Distributor Ignition Control Module

DIS - Direct Ignition (Waste Spark)

DITDES - Desired Dynamic Injection Timing

DLC - Data Link Connector (OBD)

DLL - Dynamic Link Library

DM - Drive Motor

DMCM - Drive Motor Control Module

DMCT - Drive Motor Coolant Temperature

DMPI Module - Drive Motor Power Inverter Module

DMS - Distributor Modulator System

DOHC - Dual Overhead Cam

DOL - Data Output Line to IPC

DPC - Dynamic Pressure Control

DPFE - Differential Pressure Feedback

DPI - Fuel Plug Inhibit

DRB II - Diagnostic Readout Box (Chrysler)

DRCV - Distributor Retard Control Valve

DREAMS - Digital Room Enlargement Automotive Sound

DRFS - Demand-Regulated Fuel Supply

DRL - Daytime Running Lights

DSBP - Driver Seat Belt Pretensioner

DSO - Digital Storage Oscilloscope

DSR - Ford Diagnostic Subroutine

DSS - Downshift Solenoid

DSSA - Dual Signal Spark Advance (Ford)

DSV - Deceleration Solenoid Valve

DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Code

DTC FRZ - Diagnostic Trouble Code Freeze Frame

DTM - Diagnostic Test Mode

DTVS - Dual Temperature Vacuum Switch

DV - Delay Valve

DVAC - Distributor Vacuum Advance Control Valve

DVDSV - Differential Vacuum Delay and Separator Valve

DVDV - Distributor Vacuum Delay Valve

DVOM - Digital Volt-Ohmmeter

DV-TW - Relay Valve Two Way

DVVV - Distributor Vacuum Vent Valve

E4OD - Electronic 4-Speed Overdrive

EAC - Electronic Air Control (replaced with AIR)

EACV - Electronic Air Control Valve

EAIR - Electronic Secondary Air Injection

EBCM - Electronic Brake Control Module

EBP - Exhaust Back :Pressure

EBTCM - Electronic Brake T/C Module

EC - Engine Control

ECA - Electronic Control Assembly (Ford)

ECC - Electronic Climate Control

ECCS - Electronic Concentrated Control System

ECI - Extended Compressor at Idle

ECIT - Electronic Control Ignition Timing

ECL - Engine Coolant Level

ECM - Engine/Electronic Control Module

ECO - Electronically Controlled Orifice (power steering)

ECS - Evaporation Control System (Chrysler)

ECS - Emission Control System

ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature

ECU - Electronic Control Unit

ECU - Electronic Control Unit

EDF - Electro-Drive Fan

EDIS - Electronic Direct Ignition System (replaced with EI)

EDM - Electronic Distributor Modulator (Ford)

EEC - Electronic Engine Control (Ford)

EEC-I - Control of Ignition Timing

EEC-II - Control of Ignition Timing and Fuel Delivery Through a Feed Carburetor System

EEC-III - Control of Ignition Timing and Fuel Delivery Through a Central Fuel Injection System

EEC-IV - Control of Ignition Timing and Fuel Delivery Through an Electronic Fuel Injection System

EECS - Evaporative Emission Control System

EEGR - Electronic EGR (Solenoid)

EEGR Monitor - Electronic EGR Test

EEPROM - Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory

EESS - Evaporative Emission Shed System (Ford)

EEVIR - Evaporator Equalized Values in Receiver

EFC - Electronic Feedback Carburetor (Chrysler)

EFC - Electronic Fuel Control

EFCA - Electronic Fuel Control Assembly (Ford)

EFE - Early Fuel Evaporation

EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection

EFT - Engine Fuel Temperature

EFV - Early Fuel Evaporation

EGC - Exhaust Gas Check Valve (Ford)

EGO - Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (Ford)

EGOR - EGO Signal Return (Ford)

EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation

EGR Monitor - OBDII EGR Test

EGR TVV - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Thermal Vacuum Valve

EGRB - EGR Boost Sensor

EGRC - EGR Control Solenoid (Ford)

EGRC-BPT - EGR Control Back Pressure Transducer

EGRPS - EGR Valve Position Sensor (Mazda)

EGRT - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature

EGRV - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vent Solenoid

EGTS - Exhaust Gas Temperature Switch (replaced with EGRT)

EH - Electro-Hydraulic

EI - Integrated Electronic Ignition System

EICV - Electronic Idle Control Valve

ELB - Electronic Lean Burn (Chrysler)

ELC - Electronic Level Control

ELCD - Evaporative Loss Control Device

EM - Engine Modification

EMB - Electromagnetic Brakes

EMF - Electromotive Force (voltage)

EMI - Electromagnetic Interference

EMR - Electronic Module Retard

EMVT - Electro-Mechanical Valve Train

EN - Generator (Alternator)

EOBD - European On Board Diagnostics

EOP - Engine Oil Pressure

EOS - Exhaust Oxygen Sensor

EOT - Engine Oil Temperature

EP - Exhaust Pressure

EPA - Environmental Protection Agency

EPC - Electronic Pressure Control

EPOS - EGR Valve Position Sensor (Ford)

EPR - Exhaust Pressure Regulator Valve

EPROM - Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory

EPT - EGR Pressure Transducer (replaced with PFE)

ESA - Electronic Spark Advance (Chrysler)

ESC - Electronic Spark Control System (Ford)

ESD - Electrostatic Discharge

ESS - Electronic Spark Selection (Cadillac)

ESS - Engine Start-Stop

EST - Electronic Spark Timing

ETC - Electronic Temperature Control

ETP - EGR Pressure Transducer

ETR - Electronically Tuned Receiver

EVAP - Evaporative Emissions System

EVAP CP - Evaporative Canister Purge

EVAP CV - Evaporative Emissions System Canister Vent

EVIC - Electronic Vehicle Information Center

EVO - Electronic Vehicle Orifice

EVP - EGR Valve Position Sensor

EVR - EGR Vacuum Regulator

EXH - Exhaust

EZEE - Equal to Zero Emissions Engine

F4WD - Full Time Four Wheel Drive

FAN - Cooling Fan (Low or High Speed)

FBC - Feedback Carburetor

FBCA - Feedback Carburetor Actuator (Ford)

FC - Fan Control

FCA - Fuel Control Assembly (Chrysler)

FCM - Fan Control Module

FCS - Fuel Control Solenoid (Ford)

FDBK - Feedback

FDC - Fuel Deceleration Valve (Ford)

FDV - Fuel Decel Valve (Ford)

FEEPROM - Flash Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory

FEPROM - Flash Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory

FF - Flexible Fuel

FFFP - Fuel-Flexible Fuel Processor

FI - Fuel Injector

FIC - Fast Idle Control

FICD - Fast Idle Control Device

FIPL - Fuel Injection Pump Lever

FLC - Fluid Lock-up Converter (Ford)

FLS - Fluid Level Sensor (GM)

FM - Fan Motor Program in PCM

FMEM - Failure Mode Effect Management

FMVSS - Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards

FOM - Fix Operating Mode (Limp Mode)

FP - Fuel Pump Relay (Ford)

FP - Fuel Pump

FPM - Fuel Pump Monitor (in PCM)

FPRC - Fuel Pump Regulator Control

FRC - Forced

FRP - Fuel Rail Pressure

FRT - Fuel Rail Temperature

FRZ - Freeze Frame

FT - Fuel Trim

FTL - Fuel Tank Level Sensor

FTO - Filtered Tachometer Output

FTP - Fuel Tank Pressure

FTT - Fuel Tank Temperature

FWD - Front Wheel Drive

g/sec - Grams per Second

GA - Gage

GCM - Governor Control Module

GCW - Gross Combination Weight

GDC - Fuel Data Center

GDI - Gasoline Direct Injection

GEM - Generic Electronic Module

GEN - Generator (Alternator)

GND - Electrical Ground Connection

GOOSE - Brief Throttle Open/Close

GPM - Grams Per Mile

GPS - Governor Pressure Sensor

GST - Generic Scan Tool

GVW - Gross Vehicle Weight

H - Hydrogen

H/CMPR - High Compression

H2O - Water

HAC - High Altitude Compensator

HAIS - Heated Air Intake System (Chrysler)

HBV - Heater Blower Voltage

HC - Hydrocarbons

HCDS - High Clutch Drum Speed

HCV - Hydrocarbon (Ford)

HCV - Exhaust Heat Control Valve (Ford)

HD - Heavy Duty

HDC - Heavy Duty Cooling

HDR-CKP - High Data Rate CKP Sensor

HEGO - Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor

HEI - High Energy Ignition (GM)

HFC - High (speed) Fan Control

HFP - High Fuel Pump (Relay) Control

Hg - Mercury

HIC - Hot-Idle Compensator (Ford)

HLOS - Hardware Limited Operation System

HO - High Output

HO2S - Heated Oxygen Sensor

HO2S-1-1 - Bank One Sensor One Signal

HO2S-1-2 - Bank One Sensor Two Signal

HO2S-1-3 - Bank One Sensor Three Signal

HO2S-2-1 - Bank Two Sensor One Signal

HO2S-2-2 - Bank Two Sensor Two Signal

hp - Horsepower

HPC - High Pressure Cutoff

HPL - High Pressure Liquid

HPS - High Performance System

HPV - High Pressure Vapor

HSC - High Swirl Combustion

HSV - Hill Start Valve (mechanical clutch)

HT - High Tension

HUB - Hub Unit Bearing

HUD - Heads Up Display

HVAC - Heater Ventilation and Air Conditioning

HVACM - Heater-Vent-Air Conditioning Module

HVS - High Voltage Switch

Hz - Hertz

I/M - Inspection and Maintenance

I/O - Input / Output

I/P - Instrument Panel

IA - Intake Air

IAC - Idle Air Control (motor or solenoid)

IACV - Idle Air Control Valve

IAS - Inlet Air Solenoid (Ford)

IAT - Intake Air Temperature

IBP - Integral Back Pressure

IBS - Intelligent Brake System

IC - Integrated Circuit

IC - Ignition Control

ICM - Ignition Control Module

ICP - Injection Control Pressure

ICS - Idle Control Solenoid (GM)

ID - Inside Diameter

IDI - Integrated Direct Ignition

IDL - Idle Position Switch

IDM - Injector Driver Module

IDM - Ignition Diagnostic Monitor

IFI - Indirect Fuel Injection

IFR - In-Frame Response

IFS - Inertia Fuel Switch

IGN - Ignition

IGN ADV - Ignition Advance

IGN GND - Ignition Ground

ILC - Idle Load Compensator

IMA - Idle Mixture Adjuster

IMRC - Intake Manifold Runner Control

IMS - Ignition Module Signal

IMS - Inferred Mileage Sensor (Ford)

IMT - Intake Manifold Timing

INJ 1 to INJ 10 - Fuel Injectors 1 to 10

INT - Integrator (replaced with ST FUEL TRIM)

IOCTL - Input / Output Control

IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster

IPR - Injector Pressure Regulator

IRCM - Integrated Relay Control Module

ISA - Idle Speed Actuator

ISC - Idle Speed Control

ISO - International Standard of Organization

ISS - Input Shaft Speed

ISS - Instant Start System (diesel engine)

ITA - Ignition Timing Adjustment

ITCS - Ignition Timing Control System (Honda)

ITS - Idle Tracking Switch

IVPWR - EEC-Measured Battery Voltage

IVS - Idle Validation Switch

IVSC - Integrated Vehicle Speed Control

IVV - Idle Vacuum Valve (Ford)

JAS - Jet Air System (Mitsubishi)

JSV - Jet Mixture Solenoid Valve

KAM - Keep Alive Memory

KAPWR - Direct Battery Power

KD - Kickdown

KDLH - Kickdown Low Hold

Kg/cm2 - Kilograms/ Cubic Centimeters

kHz - Kilohertz

Km - Kilometers

KOEC - Key On, Engine Cranking

KOEO - Key On, Engine Off

KOER - Key On, Engine Running

KPA - Kilopascal

KS - Knock Sensor

KSM - Knock Sensor Module

KWP - Keyword Protocol

L - Liters

L4 - Four Cylinder Inline Engine

LAMBSE - Short Term Fuel Trim

LCD - Liquid Crystal Display

LDP - Leak Detection Pump

LDVSP - Light-Duty Vehicle Surveillance Program

LED - Light Emitting Diode

LFC - Low Fan Control

LFP - Low Speed Fuel Pump Control

LHD - Left Hand Drive

LOAD - Calculated Load Value

LOC - Light Off Catalyst

LONGFT - Long Term Fuel Trim

LOOP - Engine Operating Loop Status

LOS - Limited Operating Strategy

LPG - Liquid Petroleum Gas

LSS - Linear Shift Solenoid

LTFT - Long Term Fuel Trim

LTFT - Long-Term Fuel Trim

LTS - Low Coolant Switch

LUS - Lock-Up Solenoid

LV8 - Load Variable

LWB - Long Wheel Base

M/C - Mixture Control

M/T - Manual Transmission

MAF - Mass Air Flow Sensor

MAF RTN - Mass Airflow Sensor Ground

MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

MAS - Mixture Adjust Screw

MAT - Manifold Air Temperature

MC - Mixture Control

MCS - Mixture Control Solenoid (GM)

MCT - Manifold Charge Temperature Sensor (Ford)

MCU - Microprocessor Control Unit (Ford)

MCV - Manifold Control Valve (Ford)

MDB - Moving Deformable Barrier (crash testing)

MDP - Manifold Differential Pressure

MECS - Mazda Electronic Control System

MEMCAL - Memory Calibration

MFDES - Desired Mass of Fuel as Determined by the EEC Strategy

MFI - Multiport Fuel Injection

MGP - Manifold Gauge Pressure = MAP - BP

MIC - Mechanical Instrument Cluster

MICE - Multimedia Information Communications and Entertainment

MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp

MISAR - Microprocessed Sensing and Automatic Regulation (GM)

MLP - Manual Lever Position

MLP - Manual Lever Position (sensor)

MLS - Multi-Layer Steel

MLUS - Modulated Lock Up Solenoid or its Control Circuit (Ford)

MLVLPS - Manual Valve Lever Position

MODE - Engine Operation Mode, 0 = No Start, 1 = Crank, 2 = Run

MPFI - Multi-Port Fuel Injection

MPG - Miles Per Gallon

MPH - Miles Per Hour

MPI - Multi Port Injection

mS or ms - Millisecond

MSFF - Miles Since First Fail

MSIG - Multiple Spark-Ignition Gasket

MSLF - Miles Since Last Fail

MST - Manifold Surface Temperature

MT - Manual Transmission

MTV - Manifold Tune Valve

mV or mv - Milivolt

MVLPS - Manual Valve Lever Position

MVZ - Manifold Vacuum Zone

N - Nitrogen

N.C. - Normally Closed Position

N.O. - Normally Open Position

N/MIL - A Code Set Without a MIL Request

N/V - Input Shaft Speed to Vehicle Speed

NCAPS - Non-Contact Angular Position Sensor

NCRPS - Non-Contact Rotary Position Sensor

NDIR - Non Dispersive Infrared

NDS - Neutral Drive Switch

NGS - Neutral Gear Switch (Ford)

NGV - Natural Gas Vehicles

Nm - Newton Meters

NOx - Oxides of Nitrogen

NTC - Negative Temperature Coefficient

NVRAM - Non Volatile Random Access Memory

O2 - Oxygen

O2S-11 - Oxygen Sensor Signal (Bank 1)

O2S-21 - Oxygen Sensor Signal (Bank 2)

OASIS - Ford Motor Company Online Automotive Service Information System

OBD I - On Board Diagnostics Version I

OBD II - On Board Diagnostics Version II

OBD STAT - On Board Diagnostic System Status

OBEM - On-Board Emissions Measurement

OC - Oxidation Catalytic Converter

OCC - Output Circuit Check (Ford)

OCIL - Overdrive Cancel Indicator Lamp

OCS - Overdrive Cancel Switch

OCT ADJ - Octane Adjust Fuel Switch

OD - Overdrive

OD - Outside Diameter

ODM - Output Device Monitor

ODS - Overdrive Drum Speed

OE - Original Equipment

OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer

OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer

OHC - Overhead Cam Engine

OHV - Over Head Valve

OL - Open Loop

OLM - Oil Life Monitor

ORC - Oxidation Reduction Converter

OS - Oxygen Sensor

OSAC - Orifice Spark Advance Control (Chrysler)

OSC - Output State Check (Ford)

OSI - Open System Interconnect

OSM - Output State Monitor

OSS - Output Speed Shaft

OTIS - Overhead Travel Information System

OVCV - Outer Vent Control Valve

P/B - Power Brakes

P/E - Power Enrichment

P/N - Part Number

P/S - Power Steering

PA - Pressure Air (Honda)

PAFS - Pulse Air Feeder System (Chrysler)

PAIR - Pulsed Secondary Air Injection

PAS - passive Anti-Theft System

PAS - Power Assisted Steering

PASE - Passive Start and Entry (security system)

PASS - Personalized Automotive Security System

PC - Personal Computer

PC - Pressure Control

PCB - Printed Circuit Board

PCI - Programmable Communications Interface

PCM - Powertrain Control Module

PCO - Pressure Controlled Orifice (power steering)

PCS - Pressure Control Solenoid

PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation

PECV - Power Enrichment Control Valve

PF - Purge Flow Sensor

PFE - Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor

PFI - Port Fuel Injection

PFI - Port Fuel Injection (GM)

PGM-FI - Programmed Gas Management Fuel Injection (Honda)

PID - Parameter Identification Location

PID SUP - Parameter Identification Supported

PIP - Profile Ignition Pickup Signal

PIV - Peak Inverse Voltage

PKE - Passive Keyless Entry

PMD - Pump Mounted Driver

PNP - Par Neutral Position

POT - Potentiometer

PPM - Parts Per Minute

PPS - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor

PPS - Ported Pressure Switch (Ford)

PR - Pressure Relief

PRC - Pressure Regulator Control

PRNDL - Switch

PROM - Programmable Read-Only Memory

PS - Power Steering

PSA - Pressure Switch Assembly

PSC - Power Steering Control

PSI - Pounds Per Square Inch

PSOM - Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module

PSOV - Purge Shut Off Valve (Ford)

PSP - Power Steering Pressure (switch)

PSPS - Power Steering Pressure Switch

PTC - Positive Temperature Coefficient Resistor

PTO - Power Take Off (4WD Option)

PTOX - Periodic Trap Oxidizer

PTU - Part Throttle Unlock

PVA - Ported Vacuum Advance

PVS - Ported Vacuum Switch

PWM - Pulse Width Modulation

PWM - Pulse Width Modulation

PWR GND - Power Ground for PCM

QDM - Quad Driver Module

RABS - Rear Antilock Brake System

RAM - Random Access Memory

RAP - Retained Access Power

RBS - Regenerative Braking system

RECAL - Calibration Adjustment

REDOX - Reduction Oxidation Converter

REF - Reference

RFCSS - Rear-Facing Child Safety Seat

RFI - Radio Frequency Interference

RHD - Right Hand Drive

RKE - Remote Keyless Entry

RM - Relay Module

ROM - Read Only Memory

RON - Rated Octane Number

RPC - Remote Parameter Test

RPM - Revolutions Per Minute

RPT - Reference Performance Test

RRS - Variable Reluctance Sensor

RTD - Real Time Dampening

RTN - Dedicated Sensor Ground Circuit

RTV - Room Temperature Vulcanizing

RVP - Reid Vapor Pressure

RWAL - Rear Wheel Anti-Lock

RWD - Rear Wheel Drive

S4WD - Selectable Four Wheel Drive

SAE - Viscosity Grade

SA-FV - Separator Assembly Fuel/Vacuum

SAVM - Spark Advance Vacuum Modulator

SAW - Spark Angle Work

SBDS - Service Bay Diagnostic System

SBEC - Single Board Engine Controller (replaced with PCM0

SBS - Boost Solenoid (Ford)

SBT - Serial Bus Traveler

SC - Supercharged Engine

SCAP - Silicone Capacitance Absolute Pressure Sensor (Ford)

SCARES - Selective Car Audio Receptive Evaluation System

SCB - Supercharger Bypass

SCC - Spark Control Computer (Chrysler)

SCF - Steering Characteristic Function

SCI - Serial Communications Interface

SCP - Standard Corporate Protocol

SCP - Standard Corporate Protocol

SDI - Saab Direct Ignition

SDM - Sensing Diagnostic Module

SDV - Spark Deceleration Valve

SDV - Spark Delay Valve

SEFI - Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection

SEO - Special Equipment Option

SES - Service Engine Soon (replaced with MIL)

SFI - Sequential Fuel Injection

SHED - Sealed Housing Evaporative Determination System

SHO - Super High Output Engine

SHRT FT - Short Term Fuel Trim

SHRTFT1 - Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1

SIG RTN - Signal Return (sensor ground)

SIL - Shift Indicator Lamp

SIPS - Side Impact Protections System

SIR - Supplemental Inflatable Restraint

SIS - Solenoid Idle Stop

SMEC - Single Module Engine Controller (replaced with PCM)

SMPI - Sequential Multiport Fuel Injection (Chrysler)

SO2 - Sulfur Dioxide

SOHC - Single Overhead Cam

SPD - Speed

SPFI - Single Point Fuel Injection (throttle body)

SPI - Serial Peripheral Interface

SPL - Smoke Puff Limiter

SPOUT - Spark Output Signal

SPS - Service Programming System

SPS - Service Programming System

SRC - Selective Ride Control

SRDV - Spark Retard Delay Valve

SRI - Service Reminder Indicator

SRR - Short-Range Radar

SRS - Spark Retard Solenoid

SRS - Supplemental Restraint System (air bag)

SRT - System Readiness Test

SS - Speed Sensor (Honda)

SS1, SS2,etc. - Shift Solenoid 1, 2, etc.

SSI - Solid State Ignition (Ford)

ST - Scan Tool

STAR - Self Test Automatic Readout

STFT - Short-Term Fuel Trim

STI - Self Test Input

STI - Self-Test Input (Ford)

STO - Self Test Output

STO - Self-Test Output (Ford)

STS - Service Throttle System (lamp)

SUSP - Suspension System Module

SVV - Solenoid Vent Valve (Ford)

SWB - Short Wheel Base

TA - Temperature Air (Honda)

TAB - Thermactor Air Bypass

TAC - Throttle Actuator Control

TAC - Thermostatic Air Cleaner (GM)

TACH - Tachometer

TAD - Thermactor Air Diverter

TAP - Transmission Adaptive Pressure

TAV - Temperature Actuated Vacuum

TBI - Throttle Body Injection

TC - Turbocharger

TCA - Thermostat Controlled Air Cleaner

TCC - Torque Converter Clutch

TCCP - Torque Converter Clutch Pressure

TCCS - Toyota Computer Controlled System

TCI - Turbocharger and Intercooler

TCIL - Transmission Control Indicator Lamp

TCM - Transmission Control Module

TCP - Temperature Compensated Accelerator Pump (Ford)

TCP - Torque Charger

TCS - Transmission Controlled Spark (GM)

TCS - Traction Control Switch

TCS - Transmission Control Switch

TD - Turbo Diesel

TDC - Top Dead Center

TDI - Turbo Direct Injection

TE - Thermal Expansion

TFP - Transmission Fluid Pressure

TFP - Throttle Fluid Pressure

TFT - Transmission Fluid Temperature

THM - Turbo Hydra-Matic

TI - Transistorized Ignition System

TIC - Thermal Ignition Control (Chrysler)

TIR - Total Internal Reflector (headlights)

TIS - Toyota Information System

TIV - Thermactor Idle Vacuum Valve (Ford)

TK - Throttle Kicker Actuator (Ford)

TKS - Throttle Kicker Solenoid

TLA - Three-Layer Acronym

TOT - Transmission Oil Temperature

TP - Throttle Position

TP Mode - Throttle Position Mode

TPCV - Tank Pressure Control Valve

TPI - Tuned Port Injection

TPM - Tire Pressure Monitor

TPP - Throttle Position Potentiometer

TPS - Throttle Position Sensor

TPT - Throttle Position Transducer (Chrysler)

TR - Transmission Range Sensor

TRLHP - Thermal Vacuum Valve

TRS, TRS+1 - Transmission Regulated Spark Control System

TSB - Technical Service Bulletin

TSP - Throttle Solenoid Positioner (Ford)

TSS - Turbine Speed Shaft Sensor

TSS - Transmission Shaft Speed Sensor

TV - Throttle Valve

TVS - Temperature Vacuum Switch

TVV - Thermal Vent Valve (Ford)

TWC - Three Way Catalyst

TWC + OC - Three Way Catalyst

UART - Universal Asynchronous Receiver-Transmitter

UD - Underdrive

UHEGO - Universal Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen-Sensor

UIDI - Up-Integrated Direct Ignition

USB - Universal Serial Bus

V - Volts

VAC - Vacuum

VAF - Volume Air Flow

VAF - Vane Airflow Meter

VAT - Vane Air Temperature Sensor

VATS - Vehicle AntiTheft System

VBAT - Vehicle (system) Battery Voltage

VCC - Vacuum Cut Control Solenoid

VCI - Vehicle Calibration Identification

VCM - Vehicle Control Module

VCRM - Variable Control Relay Module

VCTS - Vacuum Control Temperature Sensing Valve (Ford)

VCV - Vacuum Control Valve (Ford)

VDOT - Variable Displacement Orifice Tube

VDV - Vacuum Delay Valve

VDV - Vacuum Differential Valve (Ford)

VECI - Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal

VF - Vacuum Fluorescent

VFDES - Desired Volume of Fuel as Determined by the EEC Strategy

VIM - Vehicle Interface Module

VIN - Vehicle Identification Number

VIPER - Vehicle Initial Performance Evaluation Register

VIS - Variable Induction System

VLCM - Variable Load Control Module

VMV - Vapor Management Valve (EVAP)

VMV - Vacuum Modulator Valve

VNT - Variable Nozzle Turbocharger

VOTM - Vacuum Operated Throttle Modulator (Ford)

VPW - Variable Pulse Width

VPWM - Variable Pulse Width Modulated

VPWR - Ignition Switched Power

VR - Voltage Regulator

VR/S - Vacuum Regulator/Solenoid (Ford)

VRDV - Vacuum Retard Delay Valve (Ford)

VREF - Reference Voltage (from PCM)

VRESER - Vacuum Reservoir (Ford)

VREST - Vacuum Restrictor (Ford)

VRIS - Variable Resonance Induction System

VRS - Variable Reluctance Sensor

VRV - Vacuum Regulator Valve (Ford)

VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor

VVA - Venturi Vacuum Amplifier (Ford)

VVC - Variable Voltage Choke (Ford)

VVTS - Variable Valve Timing Sensor

VVV - Vacuum Vent Valve (Ford)

W/B - Wheelbase

WAC - WOT A/C Cutout Relay

WACA - A/C WOT Cutout Relay Monitor

WOT - Wide Open Throttle

WOTV - Wide-Open Throttle Valve (Ford)

WSS - Wheel Speed Sensor

WU OC - Warm Up Oxidation Catalytic Converter

WU TWC - Warm Up Three Way Catalytic Converter

YRS - Yaw Rate Sensor

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Auto insurance risk selection is the process by which vehicle insurers determine whether or not to insure an individual and what insurance premium to charge. Depending on the jurisdiction, the insurance premium can be either mandated by the government or determined by the insurance company in accordance to a framework of regulations set by the government. Often, the insurer will have more freedom to set the price on physical damage coverages than on mandatory liability coverages.

When the premium is not mandated by the government, it is usually derived from the calculations of an actuary based on statistical data. The premium can vary depending on many factors that are believed to have an impact on the expected cost of future claims.Those factors can include the car characteristics, the coverage selected (deductible, limit, covered perils), the profile of the driver (age, gender, driving history) and the usage of the car (commute to work or not, predicted annual distance driven)

History

Conventional methods for determining costs of motor vehicle insurance involve gathering relevant historical data from a personal interview with, or a written application completed by, the applicant for the insurance and by referencing the applicant's public motor vehicle driving record that is maintained by a governmental agency, such as a Bureau of Motor Vehicles. Such data results in a classification of the applicant to a broad actuarial class for which insurance rates are assigned based upon the empirical experience of the insurer. Many factors are deemed relevant to such classification in a particular actuarial class or risk level, such as age, sex, marital status, location of residence and driving record.

The current system of insurance creates groupings of vehicles and drivers (actuarial classes) based on the following types of classifications.

* Vehicle: Age; manufacturer, model; and value.
* Driver: Age; sex; marital status; driving record (based on government reports), violations (citations); at fault accidents; and place of residence.
* Coverage: Types of losses covered, liability, uninsured or underinsured motorist, comprehensive, and collision; liability limits; and deductibles.

The classifications, such as age, are further broken into actuarial classes, such as 21 to 24 year olds, to develop a unique vehicle insurance cost based on the specific combination of attributes for a particular risk. For example, the following information would produce a unique vehicle insurance cost:

* Vehicle: Age - 7 years old; manufacturer, model - Ford, Explorer XLT; value $ 18,000
* Driver: Age - 38 years old; gender - male; marital status - single; driving record (based on government reports) violations - 1 point (speeding); at fault accidents - 3 points (one at fault accident); place of residence 33619 (zip code)
* Coverage: Types of losses covered; liability - yes; uninsured or underinsured - no; motorist comprehensive - yes; collision - yes; liability limits - $100,000/$300,000/$50,000; deductibles - $500/$500.

A change to any of this information might result in a different premium being charged if the change resulted in a different actuarial class or risk level for that variable. For instance, a change in the drivers' age from 38 to 39 may not result in a different actuarial class because 38 and 39 year old people may be in the same actuarial class. However, a change in driver age from 38 to 45 may result in a different premium because the records of the insurer indicate a difference in risk associated with those ages and, therefore, the age difference results in a change in actuarial class or assigned risk level.

Current insurance rating systems also provide discounts and surcharges for some types of use of the vehicle, equipment on the vehicle and type of driver. Common surcharges and discounts include:

* Surcharges: Business use.
* Discounts: Safety equipment on the vehicle airbags, and antilock brakes; theft control devices passive systems (e.g. The Club), and alarm system; and driver type - good student, and safe driver (accident free); group - senior drivers fleet drivers .

Usage Based Insurance
Main article: Usage based insurance
Telematics Insurance System from AIOI patent application WO patent 2005083605

Conventional rating systems are primarily based on past realized losses and the past record of other drivers with similar characteristics. More recently, electronic systems have been introduced whereby the actual driving performance of a given driver is monitored and communicated directly to the insurance company. The insurance company then assigns the driver to a risk class based on the monitored driving behavior. An individual, therefore, can be put into different risk classes from month to month depending upon how they drive. For example, a driver who drives long distance at high speed in one month might be placed into a high risk class for that month and pay a large premium. If the same driver drives for short distances at low speed the next month, however, then he or she might be placed into a lower risk class and charged a lower premium.

Norwich Union offered a type of telematic auto insurance in the United Kingdom,discontinued in 2008, called Pay as You Drive. This system employed a combination global positioning system (GPS) and cell phone in a car to monitor driving performance and communicate risk factors to the insurance company. Drivers were offered a discount if they exhibited safe driving as Norwich defined it. Trials conducted by Norwich Union in 2005 found that young drivers (18 to 23 year olds) signing up for telematic auto insurance had a 20% lower accident rate than average.

In the United States, Progressive Corporation has an auto insurance program called MyRate. The program gives drivers a customized insurance rate based on how, how much, and when their car is driven. MyRate is currently available in Alabama, Kentucky, Louisiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Maryland, New Jersey and Oregon. Driving data is transmitted to the company using an on-board device. The device connects to a car's OnBoard Diagnostic (OBD-II) port (all automobiles built after 1996 have an OBD-II.) and transmits speed, time of day and number of miles the car is driven. There is no GPS in the MyRate device, so no location information is collected. Cars that are driven less often, in less risky ways and at less risky times of day can receive large discounts. Progressive has received patents on its methods and systems of implementing usage-based insurance and has licensed these methods and systems to other companies. Progressive has service marks pending on the terms Pay As You Drive and Pay How You Drive.

Other insurance companies are offering telematic auto insurance products in Germany, South Africa, and Japan.

Patented risk selection systems

New risk selection methods may be patentable to a greater or lesser degree depending upon the patent laws of various countries. These patents are generally described as business method patents. The United States is fairly liberal in granting business method patents. Europe is fairly conservative.

Different forms of telematic auto insurance, for example, were independently invented and patented by a major U.S. auto insurance company, Progressive Auto Insurance us patent 5797134 and a Spanish independent inventor, Salvador Minguijon Perez EU patent 700009. The Progressive patents cover the use of a cell phone and GPS to track movements of a car. The Perez patent covers monitoring the car's engine control computer to determine distance driven, speed, time of day, braking force, etc. Ironically, Progressive is developing the Perez technology in the US and Norwich Union is developing the Progressive technology for Europe under a license from Progressive. Progressive does not have to get a license to the Perez patent since it was never filed in the US.

References

1. ^ McClenahan, Charles. "Ratemaking" (PDF). Casualty Actuarial Society. http://www.casact.org/admissions/syllabus/ch3.pdf. Retrieved on 2006-05-11.
2. ^ "What determines the price of my policy?" (HTML). Insurance Information Institute. http://www.iii.org/individuals/auto/b/whatdetermines/. Retrieved on 2006-05-11.
3. ^ "How Are Auto Insurance Rates Calculated?" (HTML). Countrywide Insurance Services. http://insurance.countrywide.com/auto/ratescalculated.aspx. Retrieved on 2006-05-11.
4. ^ U.S. Patent Application 20040153362 Bauer, Alan Rex; Burns, Kurtis Tavis; Esposito, Michael Vincent; Huber, David Charles JR.; O'Malley, Patrick Lawrence; "Monitoring system for determining and communicating a cost of insurance", January 2004
5. ^ UK: Norwich Union launches innovative "Pay As You Drive" insurance with prices from 1p per mile, Norwich Union press release, 05 October 2006
6. ^ Nowotarski, Mark, "Progressive Builds a Fortress of Patent Protection", Insurance IP Bulletin, October 15, 2004

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Parts used: Powerslot cyro brake rotors and Hawk LTS brake pads, CRC Disc Brake Quiet, Permalex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube (or similar).

Tools needed: Jack, jack stands, sockets (12mm, 18mm, 19mm), and socket wrench, impact air wrench (optional), woodworking bar clamp or other type of padded clamp, six pack of your favorite barley pop.

Unless you have several football player sized buddies willing to hold the vehicle off the ground for your while you work under it, I suggest raising the vehicle and securing it on jack stands.� Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket or vehicle supplied lug wrench, then remove the wheels.� Optional procedure: loosen all lug nuts only one turn prior to raising vehicle and drive around the block turning abruptly and using the brakes.� Doing this may help loosen the rotors by breaking them free from the rust on the hubs.� Drive slowly but make quick stops and turns while braking.� Stay close to the garage and don�t drive fast.� Also, since you are likely to draw the attention of your neighbors to yourself, please don�t do this while wearing your old high school wrestling uniform.� No one wants to see that.



Using the 12mm socket, remove the two upper and lower caliper bolts.
Pull the caliper off the pads by moving it towards the rear.� That�s what she said.

Making sure that no one is watching you, pull the old pads out of the bracket.
Using the 18mm socket remove the two bracket bolts.

Carefully remove the two retention washers on the lug threads with a screwdriver.� Take your time and don�t bend the washers too much, they will come off and you can reuse them.� Now, remove the old rotor.� Lower your cost of this brake job by $20 and sell the old rotors on Ebay or Craiglslist, or use them as a paper weight during the next hurricane.� If the rotor is difficult to remove try penetrating oil or a big hammer and a piece of wood to protect the rotor.�� Hit away.�� If you don�t care about the rotor, then by all means forgo the wood and whack the heck out of it.
You are half way done.� Better have the beer on ice.� Carefully pull out the two caliper pins on the bracket, clean them, and smear them with the Permalex caliper lube.� The pins are just slightly different, so to avoid mixing them up, do one at a time and reinstall.
I put a little of the left over lube on the hub that contacts the rotor.� Hopefully, this will help prevent rust and should make removal of the rotor easier in the future.� If not, you, like me, just wasted 2 minutes doing something that makes no difference at all.�� If you do this, be careful not to get any lube on the lug threads.


Use a Quick Grip brand wood clamp with pads and slowly squeeze and finesse each caliper piston closed.� That hammer you used to remove the rusted on rotors will work too. �However, if you do it this way make sure you have another vehicle handy as you will need to run to the auto parts store for a new caliper.� Watch the level in the master cylinder and make sure that you do not back fill too much brake fluid and overfill the reservoir.� You may also want to consider replacing and flushing the fluid (not covered in this article).

Slide on the new shiny fangled rotor and the two retainer washers.� Can you feel the excitement?� Fantastic, now get back to work and reinstall the caliper bracket.
Put the CRC Disc Brake Quiet on the back of the pads.� I hope it is obvious why you want to be careful not to get any on the business side of the pads.� Let the CRC set for 10 minutes or so.� Good time to check the score of the game.� What?� No old TV in the garage!� Good grief, do I have to spell out everything?� Go inside and check the score.� I�ll wait here.
Place the new pads in the bracket.� Yes, the sides with the CRC goop on it go on the outside.� The pads will work much better installed this way.� In all seriousness, make sure you install the pads correctly and double check everything.
Reinstall the caliper on the bracket. ��Always replace rotors and pads in pairs, so now would be a good time to do the other side.� Just about brings tears to your eyes just looking at it doesn�t it?� If not, then something is seriously wrong.� Seek psychological help immediately.

I probably shouldn�t need to mention this but just in case you snuck a few sips of the adult beverages while you were waiting for the CRC to get tacky, be sure and replace the wheels and lower the vehicle prior to attempting to brake in the new rotors and pads.� It is a whole lot easier if you do.� For maximum safety and performance, it is very important to brake in the new rotors and pads according to the manufacturer�s instructions.

Congrats, you just saved yourself several hundred dollars in labor charges

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