Total Motorcycle's 10 Step Guide to Winterizing your motorcycle

Storing your bike for winter

Well, it's that time of year again! Soon the snow will be falling and the motorcycles will be tucked away for the winter

And each spring your dealer's phone will ring off the wall with customers who did not store the ol' bike properly and now wonder why it won't run.

Some preparation now will ensure that you are out riding in the spring instead of waiting in the dealer's lineup.


1. Location - where are you going to put it?

One solution may be to ask your dealer if he offers a storage program. This is ideal because he will often prep, store, and have the bike ready to ride when you are ready again. If you decide to store it yourself, you will need a place that is dry and out of harm's way.

When possible. Chose a location away from windows. The ultraviolet light can fade paint and plastic parts. Direct sunlight can raise the ambient temperature of the storage area which will promote condensation when the sun goes down, so cover plain glass with some sort of opaque material. Also, cover your bike with a specially designed bike cover not a sheet or a tarp. Why? Because a sheet absorbs moisture and hold it against metal surfaces and then rust forms. Also, damp fabric will breed mildew and this may attack the seat material. A tarp prevents moisture from getting in but it also prevents it from getting out. Moisture trapped will condense on the bike and then the rust monster is back!

A specially designed motorcycle cover is made of a mildew resistant material. The material is slightly porous, so it can breathe.

2. Change The Oil

Tip: Just like cars a colder winter grade oil will allow your bike to start easier in colder weather. If your motorcycle runs ok with a cold winter grade oil (5w30) then changing the oil to this grade will help startup and running in spring.

Even if the oil is not due for a change, byproducts of combustion produce acids in the oil which will harm the inner metal surfaces. Warm the engine to its normal operating temperature, as warm oil drains much faster and more completely.

While you are at it, why not change the filter too? Add fresh motorcycle grade oil. Remember to dispose of the drained oil and old filter in a responsible manner. What to do with the old oil? Recycle it. Most stores you have purchased the oil from will take it back free of change to be recycled.


3. Add Fuel Stabilizer And Drain Carbs

Tip: You only need to drain the carbs if your motorcycle will be stored more than 4 months. Otherwise just add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank, run the bike for 10 minutes so it mixes and gets into the carbs.

Fill the tank with fresh fuel, but do not overfill. The correct level is when the fuel just touches the bottom of the filler neck. This gives enough room for the fuel to expand without overflowing the tank when temperature rises.

Shut off the fuel petcock and drain the carburetors and the fuel lines. Add winterizing fuel conditioner to prevent the fuel from going stale, and help prevent moisture accumulation. Stale fuel occurs when aromatics (the lighter additives) evaporate leaving a thicker, sour smelling liquid. If left long enough, it will turn into a gum, plugging the jets and passages inside your carbs!



4. Lube the cylinder(s)

Tip: You only need to do this if your motorcycle will be stored a very long time (6 months or more)

Because gasoline is an excellent solvent and the oil scraper ring has done its job, most of the oil from the cylinder walls have been removed since the last time the engine was run. If the cylinder wall is left unprotected for a long period of time, it will rust and cause premature piston and ring wear.

Remove the spark plugs and pour a tablespoon (5 cc) of clean engine oil or spray fogging oil into each cylinder. Be sure to switch off the fuel before you crank the engine or else you may refill the drained carbs! Also, ground the ignition leads to prevent sparks igniting any fuel residue. Turn the engine over several revolutions to spread the oil around and then reinstall the plugs. Refitting the plugs before cranking the engine could result in a hydraulic lock if too much oil was used in the cylinder.



5. Battery Storage

The battery must be removed from the motorcycle when it is in storage. Motorcycles often have a small current drain even when the ignition is switched off (dark current), and a discharged battery will sulfate and no longer be able to sustain a charge.

A conventional battery should be checked for electrolyte level. Add distilled water to any of the cells that are low and then charge the battery.

Battery charging should be performed at least every two weeks using a charger that has an output of 10% of the battery ampere hour rating. For example if the battery has an AH rating of 12 (e.g. 12N12A-4A-1 where the 12A is 12 amp hours), then the charge rate of that battery should not exceed 1.2 amps. A higher charge will cause the battery to overheat. Charge the battery away from open flame or sparks as the gas (hydrogen) given off a battery can be explosive. Elevate the battery and keep it from freezing. Exercise the proper caution appropriate to caustic substances.



6. Surface Preparation

Waxing and polishing the motorcycle might seem like a waste of time since you are putting it away and no one will see it. But applying wax is a very important part of storing a motorcycle.Wax will act as a barrier against rust and moisture.

Don't forget to spray any other metal surfaces (such as the frame or engine) will a very light spray of WD-40. This will keep these areas shiny and protect from corrosion as well.



7. Exhaust and Mufflers

Exhausts/Mufflers are known to rust fast when they are not used. So making sure they are properly stored for the winter on your bike will save them from an early rusty death. Spray a light oil (such as WD40) into the muffler ends and drain holes. Lightly stick a plastic bag (shopping bag is fine) into the end of each muffler hole (to keep moisture from getting inside the exhaust). Then cover each muffler with another plastic bag to keep outside moisture off.



8. Tires

Check both front and rear tires with your air pressure gauge. Make sure each tire is properly inflated to the maximum recommend pressure. As it gets colder, air condenses in your tire so it is important to pump them up as to keep your tires healthy. Rubber is a flexible material and does not like to freeze (it cracks when it freezes). Placing 1/4"-1/2" piece of cardboard or wood board under each tire will help keep the rubber raised up from a freezing floor.

DO NOT use a tire dressing on tires (such as Armor-All or tire cleaning foam) as this will make the tires hard and slippery.



9. Service all fluids

If the brake or clutch fluids haven't been changed in the last two years or 18,000 km (11,000 miles), do it now. The fluids used In these system are "hygroscopic" which means that they absorb moisture. The contaminated fluid will cause corrosion inside the systems which may give problems when the motorcycle is used next spring. Be sure to use the correct fluids and note the warnings and instructions in the service manual. If you don't have the experience to service these systems, contact your dealer, he will be happy to assist you.

If your motorcycle is liquid cooled, the coolant requires changing every two years or 24,000 kms (15,000 miles). Make sure that the engine is cool enough to rest your hand on it before draining the system and please dispose of the coolant responsibly. Coolant/antifreeze is available from your dealer and has been developed to provide the correct protection for your motorcycle engine. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water will ensure a clean system for the next two years or 24,000 kms (15,000 miles).



10. Cover it.

Now you can cover the bike with the cycle cover and look forward to the first warm day of spring.



Back On The Road

Before you head out onto the highway, there are a couple of things to do. First, remove the cover and put it where you can find it again. Talking of finding things, locate the (charged) battery and reinstall it connecting the positive (+) cable (red) before the (-) negative and covering the terminals with the plastic covers. Recheck all fluid levels and turn on the fuel. Check for anything wrong on the motorcycle (cracked tires, broken parts/plastic, leaking oil). Set the tire pressures back to riding specs and you are ready to fire up.

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Things to Check Regularly

Tip: There are dozens of parts on a motorcycle that could be checked on a regular basis and there is nothing wrong with check all those parts. But try to slim the list down to the most important items so you still have time to ride.

Here is a basic list of some of the most important things to check on a motorcycle. Even doing a little can make a big difference. Battery, Oil, Tires (tyres), Brakes, Chain and sprocket (Shaft Drive, Belt Drive) and Fuel (Gas, Petrol).


Tires, Tyres.

Tip: Keep a low pressure tire gauge (0psi - 80psi) in your bike tool bag at all times. Try to remember to check your tire pressure everytime you fill up for gas.

Keep your tires correctly inflated. A tire that is very under-inflated generates a lot of heat which can lead to a blow out. Tires that run too hot also wear out more quickly. The most common motorcycle breakdown is for tire damage.

Purchase a pencil-type tyre gauge and use it regularly until you instinctively 'know' what your tyres feel like correctly inflated. Use of the gauge and visual inspections must become second nature.

Replace your tires sooner rather than later. If tread depth is 1-2mm it is time to replace your tires. Take a tip from the mad sportbikers and the canyon racers - they never skimp on their tyres as they are often all that stands between them and the pearly gates.



Brakes

Tip: Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and becomes less effective. Replace brake fluid every one to two years and your brakes will preform the best they can.

Motorcycles have up to two brake fluid reservoirs, one for the front, usually found on the handlebars and one for the back. Both should be checked regularly. Topping up should only be done from a new, sealed bottle as brake fluid tends to absorb moisture over time. If your brake pads are thin and due for replacement. Beware - brake fluid, if spilt on paintwork eats right through to the bare metal.

Also check the thickness of the brake pads. If you allow them to go right down to the metal your brake disc will be damaged resulting in an unnecessary and expensive replacement. Fitting braided steel brake lines will increase the performance of your brakes by roughly 50%



Chain and sprockets, Shaft Drives, Belts

Tip: Lube your chain after each ride when the chain is warm so the oil can easily soak in and get into all the tight spots of the chain.

These items that are essential to the well being of your bike. If not well maintained you will end up spending a lot of money all too often to have them replaced.

Chains: Lubricate them often with a commercial chain spray everytime you fill up for gas. (or at the end of each ride). Spray liberally on the side of the chain that comes into contact with the sprockets. Ensure that you spray both left and the right hand side of the chain. Position a piece of newspaper so that you do not dirty the rear wheel rim as you spray. Use a second piece on the floor to catch any drips. Wait five or ten minutes before you wipe all excess oil off the chain. This whole process is a lot easier if your motorbike has a centre stand. Spinning the back tyre will ensure that the rest of the chain is lubricated when it comes into contact with the sprocket and pinion. This is a task that is best done when you return home from your ride while the chain is still warm.

Bike chains are never taut but must be able to sag between 3/4" to 1 1/4" at the mid-point between the two sprockets. The sag is used when the bike suspension moves up and down over uneven surfaces.

Shaft Drives: Even though shaft drives on motorcycles require little maintenance we would suggest replacing the shaft drive oil every time you change the oil on your motorcycle. This will lead to a very long and happy life for the shaft drive.

Belt Drives: As with shaft drives, belts do not require a lot of maintenance. Everytime you change the oil on your motorcycle check the belt tension and adjust if necessary. Make sure your belt is always clean.



Fuel

Tip: Check your fuel filter on a regular basis and replace every 2 years.

Fuel is quite an often overlooked as a form of preventative maintenance on a motorcycle.

Check the fuel filter (if you have one) to make sure it is not clogged and looks clean and clear. Replace fuel filters every 2 years.

Check the fuel lines for weather damage and cracking, replace immediately if any is found.

Generally untreated gas only lasts (is good for) 6 months. After this time the gas starts to break down. Dispose of untreated gas older than 6 months rather than risk running it. Treated gas can last up to 2 years.

Remember when parking your motorcycle for any length of time to turn the petcock (fuel tap) to the off position. This prevents any fuel potentially leaking out and flooding the carbs or the engine.



Oil

Tip: Check your oil level when it is cold before you go on a ride. If it is not at its high or max level top it up before going out.

Regular oil and filter changes will keep your motorbike young and healthy.

Oil level. Make sure you regularly check and keep your oil level at its HIGH or MAX level. It is best to check your oil level on the bikes centre stand or when it is in a level position. An under filled oil level can be disastrous while too much oil over the limit may flood your air cleaner with oil. (it is embarassing too).

You should also know the difference between the 'low' level and the 'high' level in ml e.g. if the difference is 300ml you cannot purchase a 500ml tin and pour the whole can in!

Here are some pointers regarding oil which are true for most motorcycles

- The bike should be level as possible.
- The oil should best inspected cold and is therefore best done before you go out on a ride.
- Becareful to not allow foreign matter and dirt to fall in during the inspection process
- With threaded dipsticks do not screw the dipstick in when taking a reading, just allow it to rest on the lowest thread.
- High temperatures, time, speed, heavy traffic, short trips and dust quickly destroy the quality of your oil. If you do ride in these conditions change your oil more frequently.
- I suggest changing your oil every 2-4000km or 3-6 months, whichever comes first. (I change mine every 2,500 km).
- It is recommended you change your oil filter everyother oil change if you are using a good quality oil filter (e.g. WIX, Your Motorcycle Manufacturer Brand). If not, every oil change!
- Always use a good oil filter (WIX brand from UAP/NAPA is a recommend one)
- Motorcycles can and do use the same oils as cars although special synthetic motorcycle oils are available. Always use the recommended oil weight for your motorcycle (e.g. 10w40 or 20w50). Older (15+ year old) motorcycles run best on regular (non-synthetic oil), while new bikes like either.



Battery

Tip: Check the fluid levels on each chamber. If any chamber is low, carefully top it up. Use only distilled or deionized water, NOT tap water. Tap water has minerals in it that will not do the battery any good.

The humble battery is a very common cause for motorcycle breakdowns! Unfortunately they are awkward to get to and therefore do not get checked as often as they should.

A battery only requires a little monthly maintenance to perform perfectly. Keep the battery charged to 100%, recharging when the lights dim, the starter sounds weak, or the battery hasn't been used in more than two weeks. Other than that, follow this simple check list every month:

- Check the electrolyte level
- Top up only with distilled or deionized water, wear gloves and protective glasses. Top up in a well ventilated area, Beware of fumes.
- Keep the top free of grime
- Check cables, clamps, and case for obvious damage or loose connections
- Clean terminals and connectors as necessary
- Check inside for excessive sediment, sulfation or mossing
- Make sure the exhaust tube is free of kinks and clogs
- Replace caps firmly
- Finish up by testing the battery with either a hydrometer or voltmeter. To extend the service life of your battery, make monthly battery maintenance part of your routine.

Use only distilled or deionized water, NOT tap water. Tap water has minerals in it that will not do the battery any good.

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Sparkplugs:
Types
You may of noticed that there are hundreds of types, sizes and brands of spark plugs on the market. But out of that huge selection, only a handful will work with the motorcycle engine you own. Also different brands (NGK, Bosch, DENSO, Champion, Esc) will work better on different types of engines.

As a general rule of thumb, use the sparkplug your manufacturer recommends for your motorcycle (same brand and part number). Unfortunately some spark plugs are very specific to a type of engine and make only for that engine such as the NGK ME8 for $34.23 per sparkplug, compared to the "normal" price of $2-4 per sparkplug.

Reading a spark plug correctly: (clickable chart)
There are two different main ways to read a spark plug. #1. The first way is to just unscrew it out of the engine and take a look at the end of it, matching the chart below. #2. The second way is the same as #1 except you go for a really hard high revving ride on the bike, pull over and then unscrew each plug to read them. (Just make sure to use gloves as they will be very hot).

A spark plug can easily and quickly tell you the condition of an engine (good or poor), how it is running (rich or lean) and how much it will cost to fix it.


CARBON DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard shifting and hesitation.

Recommendations: Check for a clogged air element, high float level, sticky choke and worn ignition points. Use a spark plug with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.

OIL DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesitation.

Recommendations: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

TOO HOT
Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life.

Recommendations: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged.

PREIGNITION
Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring of flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage.

Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING
Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicate that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds.

Recommendation: Install new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

GAP BRIDGING
Symptoms: Combustion deposits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire… resulting in a dead cylinder.

Recommendation: Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

NORMAL
Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions.

Recommendations: When new spark plugs are installed replace with plugs of the same heat range.

ASH DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration.

Recommendation: If excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage or oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

WORN
Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.

Recommendation: Replace with new plugs of the same heat range.

DETONATION
Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped, improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage.

Recommendation: Make sure the fuel antiknock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

SPLASHED DEPOSITS
Symptoms: After long periods of misfiring, deposits can loosen when normal combustion temperature is restored by an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing misfiring.

Recommendations: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE
Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage.

Recommendation: remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

Sparkplug Caps:

Tip: Don't use decorative or spark arching type sparkplugs.

There are many different styles and types of sparkplug caps. Try to use the sparkplug cap that best matches the angle between the spark plug wire and spark plug itself. No matter what shape the spark plug cap is, is will perform the same.

Try to avoid "decorate" or spark arching type spark plug caps as they will LOWER the power to the sparkplug and you will have a weaker spark on stock systems.


Sparkplug Gap
Tip: If you use the exact same sparkplug as your motorcycle manufacturer recommends the sparkplug should be (99%) properly gapped to the correct size. Checking a gap only takes seconds to do.

Always check that the spark plug gap is compatible with the engine manufacturers specification. A gap that is too small means that the spark duration will be very quick and the spark will be thin and weak. The consequences of this may be bad starting and high exhaust emission levels. This will result in an increase in fuel consumption. If the gap is set too large, the ignition system will not be able to cope with the demands and a misfire situation will occur. Some wide gap spark plugs have a longer ground electrode to accommodate a wide gap setting. These must be used where specified, as opening up a standard plug to a wider gap setting may result in the electrodes not running parallel to each other. This could result in abnormal and premature electrode wear.

Hot and Cold Sparkplugs
Tip: It is better to fix the problem than to change the sparkplug to patch it up.

Why Hot and Cold Sparkplugs? Using a hotter or colder sparkplug can be just the fix to an engine problem. Very basely, if your motorcycle engine
is running hot then try using a colder plug, if it is running hot try a colder plug.

NGK diagram showing insulator and heat range

Hot Plug
- has a longer insulator nose length
- less heat is absorbed by the plug and transferred to the cooling system
- the plug runs at a higher temperature
- the plug is more prone to pre-ignition (if greater than 850 degrees C)
- NGK BP5ES is hotter than a BP7ES plug.
- An overheated plug will be white with brown spots.

Cold Plug
- has a shorter insulator nose length
- more heat is absorbed by the plug and transferred to the cooling system
- the plug runs at a lower temperature
- the plug is more prone to fouling (if less than 500 degrees C)
- NGK BP7ES is cooler than a BP5ES plug.
- A fouled plug will be black and sooty.

Influences to spark plug temperature
Any of the following situations can increase spark plug temperature:
-Lean air/fuel mixtures
-Increasing compression
-Forced induction (Supercharging, turbocharging or Nitrous)
-Camshaft change
-Advancing ignition timing
-Higher engine speed
-Higher engine load
-Lower air temperature (more dense air resulting in leaner air/fuel mixture)
-Lower humidity (more dense air resulting in leaner air/fuel mixture)

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It is actually not very hard to bleed (renew) your own motorcycle brake fluid. This should be done at least every 2 years. Or when the brake fluid turns from clear to a brown to black colour (darker it is, the worse it is).

Brake fluid will eat away at plastic and paint, be sure to cover any paint or plastic that may get splashed with brake fluid. Wipe any spilled fluid with the rag and lots of water.

Step 1: Make sure you have the tools to bleed your brake fluid. The tools you require will vary, but generally this is what you will need:

A. Wrench/Spanner (average 10mm)
B. Brake bleeding kit (rubber fitting, clear hose, small container)
C. Brake fluid overflow container (to put the brake bleeding kit small container in)
D. Rags
E. Brake Fluid (check what type of brake fluid you need for your bike. e.g. DOT 3). Make sure to buy enough brake fluid in the DOT type you require. (500ml should be more than enough).

Step 2: Attach the brake bleeding kit to the brake fluid nipple located on the brake caliper.

Step 3: Loosen the nipple so the fluid is free to flow down the brake bleeding kit tube and into the small container

Step 4: Remove the master cylinder cap (top) so you can monitor and refill more brake fluid into the master cylinder as you bleed the brakes.

Step 5. Pump the brake lever so the old/new brake fluid is forced through the tube into the brake bleeding kit fluid container

Step 6: Keep the volume of the master cylinder constant (near full) as to not have it empty. Keep pumping on the brake lever until the fluid coming out is clear (rather than the old brown/black colour).

Step 7: Once all the tiny air bubbles are gone hold pressure on the brake level and re-tighten the brake fluid nipple to close it off.

Step 8: Replace the master cylinder top cover.

Step 9: Remove the brake bleeding kit from the cliper and use the rag with water to clean up any spillage.

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Tire Care and Tyre Tips

Tires on motorcycles, like any vehicle, play a vital role in the performance, handling and safety of the bike. Many times we tend to ignore the necessary maintenance needed to keep the tires safe. With motorcycles, there are only two small contact patches for the rider to rely on, so it is extremely important to keep the tires in top condition.

Any tire, no matter how well constructed, may fail in use as a result of punctures, impact damage, improper inflation, overloading, or other conditions resulting from use or misuse. Tire failure may create a risk of property damage, serious personal injury or death. To reduce the risk of tire failure, we strongly recommend you read and follow all safety information contained in this brochure.

It is recommended that riders do a periodic inspection of their tires and have any imbedded objects removed by a qualified service person. Serious personal injury or death may result from a tire failure. Many tire failures are preceded by vibration, bumps, bulges or irregular wear. If a vibration occurs while riding your motorcycle, or you notice a bump, bulge or irregular wear, have your tires and motorcycle evaluated by a qualified service person.

It is not often that a properly maintained tire will "blow out" while you are riding. More commonly if air is lost, it will be gradual. If you do experience a blow out or sudden tire failure, the following information should be helpful: When the failure occurs, slowly decrease the amount of throttle, hold the handlebars firmly, and steer to maintain your lane position. Once the motorcycle has slowed and is fully under control, apply the brakes gently. Gradually pull over to the shoulder and come to a stop.

Tire Inflation

Always keep the motorcycle manufacturer's recommended air pressure in both tires. This is an important requirement for tire safety and mileage. Your motorcycle owner’s manual will tell you the recommended cold inflation pressure. On some motorcycles, the recommended front and rear tire pressures will be different. The pressures stamped on the sidewall of the tire are only for maximum loads. On some occasions, these pressures will also be the manufacturers recommended settings as well.

Riding on tires with too little air pressure is dangerous. The tires will build excessive heat. This can cause a sudden tire failure that could lead to serious personal injury or death.

Underinflation may also:
-Damage the tire leading to tire failure
-Adversely affect vehicle cornering
-Reduce tire life
-Increase fuel consumption
-Fatigue cracking

Riding on tires with too much air can be dangerous. The tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by sudden impact. Serious personal injury or death could result. Do not exceed the pressure indicated on the tire sidewall. Consult your owner’s manual for the recommended inflation and other tire information.

Never inflate a tire unless it is secured to the motorcycle or a tire-mounting machine. Inflating an unsecured tire is dangerous. If it bursts, it could be hurled into the air with explosive force resulting in serious personal injury or death.


Valve Stems, Cores & Caps
Old or damaged valve stems and cores may cause air loss. Replace them when mounting new tires. Use caps (finger tight) on the valve stems to keep dust, dirt and moisture away from the valve.

Checking Tire Inflation

-Check your tire air pressure at least once a week and before long trips. Be sure to use an accurate pressure gauge.
-Check your air pressure when the tires are "cold." The tires are "cold" when your motorcycle has been ridden less than a mile at moderate speed or after being stopped for three or more hours.
-If you must add air when your tires are hot, add four pounds per square inch (4 psi)(28 kPa) above the recommended cold inflation pressure. Recheck the inflation pressure when the tire is cold.
-Never release air from a hot tire in order to reach the recommended cold tire pressure. -Normal riding causes tires to run hotter and inflation pressure to increase. If you release air when your tires are hot, you may dangerously under inflate your tires.
-If your tires lose more than two pounds per square inch (2 psi)(14 kPa) per month, the tire, the valve, or wheel may be damaged. Consult your local dealer for an inspection.
-Use valve caps to keep valve cores clean, clear of debris and to help guard against air leakage.

Break-in Period

In order for your new tire(s) to provide optimum performance, tires should be ridden very cautiously for the first 100 miles in order for the tread surface to be “Scuffed-In” and work properly. Directly after new tires are mounted, sudden acceleration, maximum braking and hard cornering must be avoided. This will allow the rider to adjust to the “Feel” and handling characteristics of the new tire and for the new tire to be “Scuffed-In” correctly in order to achieve optimum grip level.

Tire Loading

Riding your motorcycle in an overloaded condition is dangerous. Overloading causes excessive heat to build up in your tires. This can lead to sudden tire failure and serious personal injury or death while the tire is overloaded or at some later date.

Safe Loading

Consult your motorcycle owner's manual for the motorcycle load limits and proper tire inflation that applies to your motorcycle and tires.

Never exceed the maximum load rating stamped on the tire sidewall of your tire or the maximum vehicle load rating, whichever is less. Before a trip, determine the total weight of luggage, equipment, and rider(s) to be added to your vehicle.

Never exceed the accessory restrictions and motorcycle load capacity found in the owner's manual, or the maximum load molded on the sidewall of the tire.

Pulling trailers behind your motorcycle is not recommended by Bridgestone/Firestone as trailers may contribute to motorcycle instability and overload.

Tire Damage

Riding on damaged tires is dangerous. A damaged tire can suddenly fail causing serious personal injury or death. Have your tires regularly inspected by your local dealer for damage.

Spotting Damaged Tires

After striking anything unusual in the roadway, ask your local dealer to demount the tire and inspect it for damage. A tire may not have visible signs of damage on the tire surface. Yet, the tire may suddenly fail without warning, a day, a week, or even months later.
Inspect your tires for cuts, cracks, splits or bruises in the tread and sidewall areas. Bumps or bulges may indicate a separation within the tire body. Have your tire inspected by a qualified tire service person. It may be necessary to have it removed from the wheel for a complete inspection.

Inspect your tires for adequate tread depth. When the tire is worn to the built-in indicators at 1/32nd inch (0.8 millimeters) or less tread groove depth, or the tire cord or fabric is exposed, the tire is dangerously worn and must be replaced immediately.

Inspect your tires for uneven wear. Wear on one side of the tread or flat spots in the tread may indicate a problem with the tire or vehicle. Consult your local dealer.
Inspect your rims also. If you have a bent or cracked rim, it must be replaced.

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A battery only requires a little monthly maintenance to perform perfectly. Keep the battery charged to 100%, recharging when the lights dim, the starter sounds weak, or the battery hasn't been used in more than two weeks. Other than that, follow this simple check list every month:
- Check the electrolyte level
- Top up only with distilled or deionized water, wear gloves and protective glasses. Top up in a well ventilated area, Beware of fumes.
- Keep the top free of grime
- Check cables, clamps, and case for obvious damage or loose connections
- Clean terminals and connectors
as necessary
- Check inside for excessive sediment, sulfation or mossing
- Make sure the exhaust tube is free of kinks and clogs
- Replace caps firmly
- Finish up by testing the battery with either a hydrometer or voltmeter. To extend the service life of your battery, make monthly battery maintenance part of your routine.
Use only distilled or deionized water, NOT tap water. Tap water has minerals in it that will not do the battery any good.

Storage can be hard on batteries. In fact, non-use can leave them unable to hold a charge.

Store your bike
in a place that is always warmer than 32 degrees. If your bike is outside remove the battery from your bike and store it in a location that is always warmer than 32 degrees. This will insure that your battery does not freeze and crack.

If you remove the battery from your bike DO NOT store it on a concrete or metal surface, place the battery on a wood or other non-conductive surface. Batteries stored on concrete or metal will discharge over time.

Place a charger on your battery. Trickle charge your battery at least once a month. A battery that is fully charged will have a longer life and is less likely to freeze during cold winter weather.



Safety - Proper Clothing

Always wear a face shield or safety goggles.

Wear plastic gloves to prevent acid burns. An apron or smock will protect your clothes.
Working With Acid

Clean up acid spills immediately using a water and baking soda solution to neutralize (1lb. baking soda in 1 gallon of water).

Make sure the acid container is clearly marked and the work area is well-lighted and well-ventilated.

If sulfuric acid is swallowed or splashed in the eyes, treat immediately. Sulfuric acid in the eyes can cause blindness. Serious internal injuries or death can result if swallowed. Used as an electrolyte, sulfuric acid can burn the skin.

ANTIDOTES: For acid on the skin, flush with water. If acid is swallowed drink large quantities of milk or water, followed by milk of magnesia, vegetable oil or beaten eggs. Do not induce vomiting. Call a poison control center or doctor immediately. For acid in the eyes, flush for several minutes with water and seek immediate medical attention.


Charging Safety

When charging conventional batteries, loosen vent caps and ventilate charging area. A buildup of hydrogen and oxygen in the battery or in the charging area can create an explosion hazard.
If the battery feels hot to the touch during charging, STOP. Allow the battery to cool before charging again. Heat damages the plates, and a battery that is too hot can explode.

NEVER put the red sealing cap back on the battery once you take it off. If you do, gases will become trapped and could explode.

Make sure the vent tube isn't kinked or blocked. Otherwise, gases could build up and explode.

Properly connect the charger to the battery: positive charger lead to positive battery post and negative charger lead to negative battery post. Unplug the charger or turn it off before you disconnect the leads, which will cut down on the chance of sparks.

ABSOLUTELY NO SMOKING, SPARKS OR FLAMES AROUND CHARGING BATTERIES. Charging gives off hydrogen and oxygen, which explode if ignited.

Selecting the Proper Battery

It's easier than you think to buy the wrong battery for your vehicle. Unless your current battery is definitely the original equipment, you're taking a chance by not double checking before you purchase the new battery. You can search for a certain battery, but there are a few general rules you should know before you search.

If the battery for your vehicle is sensor-equipped, remember to replace the sensor at the same time you change the battery.

Never swap a maintenance Free battery for another battery unless the Applications book says it's OK.

When given the option of several different batteries for your vehicle, choose the one that will give you what you want performance-wise. It's up to you.

Always make sure you have the right battery before you charge and install it. Save yourself the hassle (and money) of having to buy another battery.

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Those who love to ride motorcycles know there are dangers involved in the pursuit. Even if the cyclist is the perfect driver, observant of all laws and careful with the road conditions, things can happen. Most times, it’s another driver that causes the problem, but who is at fault isn’t the primary concern when injuries take place. It is at these times the smart motorcyclist is the one that happens to have not only good motorcycle coverage, but also a solid health insurance policy.
Injuries related to motorcycle accidents can be severe. Since the driver isn’t protected from head to toe by a car’s body, there can be sliding, scraping, crushing and other types of damage. Recuperation can be long and costly.

The best way to make sure you’re prepared for the worst is to be certain you have a good policy. Whether it’s one provided by your employer or a private purchase plan, there are some basics about medical insurance anyone – a motorcyclist or not – should understand.

Many plans come with a deductible. This is the amount of money that has to be paid before the policy can be used. Generally, the lower the better for medical insurance. And, in some cases, the personal injury protection or PIP deductible on a motorcycle policy itself can be higher if a good health plan will supplement. Deductibles can be per incident in the case of motor policies or annual.

Co-insurance involves cases where two policies come into play. This is common in motor vehicle related accidents. One plan may pay first or be the lead payer while the other one picks up where the first left off. Doctors’ offices and medical facilities generally can help the insured figure who which has to pay what.

A co-payment is a set amount a person insured under a medical policy has to pay per visit to a doctor, hospital or other facility. The amount remains the same regardless of the status of the deductible.

Most medical insurance companies set an out-of-pocket maximum for their clients on an annual basis. This is the total amount of money out of pocket a person will be asked to pay in any given year. Once this amount is met, the insurance generally kicks in at 100 percent, minus the deductible amount. This, of course, does not include premium expenses either.

The lifetime max on a policy is something to consider as well. Since accidents can be costly, the figure is worth keeping in mind. Generally, policies offer a lifetime max of about $1 million. This means once that figure has been met, the policy typically won’t cover anything else.

Of particular concern to cyclists is the exclusion clause of a policy. This will tell the insured what is not covered by the policy. In other words, it’s the fine print.

Generally, those who have a good motor vehicle policy and good medical insurance can rest assured their needs will be met if an accident does take place. Shopping for health insurance and auto insurance, however, should be a deliberate process.

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Motorcycles are a rite of passage for most young boys. It is the first true freedom they find to get out and go places and literally the first motorized vehicle many of them own because of the economics involved in owning a vehicle and the fact that most young boys are not well off financially.

The Yamaha YZF-R6 or the R6 as it is more commonly referred to is a sporty and fast bike that is going to excite almost anyone that sees it or rides on it. The heart pumping bike in 2006 touted a staggering 17500-RPM redline. If that were indeed the actual RPM of the engine, the bike would be up somewhere close to the performance of a high tech and high dollar formula one race car.

The bike is listed as having a 600 CC engine styled as a 4 stroke with 16 valves and liquid cooled, dual overhead cams and the new models incorporate titanium valves. It is fuel injected with a six-speed transmission and a final chain drive to get the torque to the rear wheel. There is a nearly 5 gallon tank that allows a decent cruising range and has a dry weight of only 366 pounds so it should be easy for anyone to maneuver.

It is styled like the traditional racing bikes and will turn almost any head that happens to see it streak by on the road or anyone simply walking by. It is a very attractive looking machine, which explains it’s almost immediate popularity when introduced back in 1999 and also explains why it continues its popularity today, ten years later.

These machines maintain their value and resell fairly well which makes them an anomaly in the motorized vehicle industry where only a handful of vehicles actually maintain worth. There is also a huge following out there of people who enjoy customizing this bike and so there is a plethora of after market accessories available for the bike so you can truly take the production machine, which is no slouch to look at, and make it an extension of your own personality by adding or subtracting parts that show who you are.

You can get everything from replacement fairings to bar ends to exhaust, seats, mirrors and lights that will go together to further accentuate the bike you have or to allow you to totally redesign the ride to be something no one else has. All of these modifications are bolt on parts so all you have to do is remove the old and replace with the new. That makes changing your look simple, sweet and fast and it’s something that you could almost do every year so it looks like you got a new bike every season. Wouldn’t that make all your friends jealous?

No matter what, the Yamaha YZF-R6 is a motorcycle that will allow you to look as good on it as it looks sitting there all alone and will get you from here to there in style.

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1. Inspect Your Motorcycle Regularly

Make up a checklist of the important things you should inspect regarding your motorcycle’s safety and performance. Send it to the service center as well every time you cover 5,000 kilometers. Regular visits may cost you a small amount of money but this amount is certainly nothing considering that it’s equivalent to the price of your life!

2. How Oily is Oily?

Make it a habit to check your motorcycle’s oil level when you’ve stopped for gas. While checking the oil, make sure that no foreign material will accidentally fall into your motorcycle’s oil storage compartment. Avoid subjecting your motorcycle to constant exposure to extremely hot or cold weather as this can affect your oil’s quality.

3. Batteries are a Motorcycle’s Best Friend
Do you know that one of the most common causes for motorcycles to cease operating or malfunction is due to battery problems? As such, you need to take excellent care of your battery at all times. Firstly, never remove or replace them if the engine is still running. Do not change batteries by yourself if you don’t have any experience.

4. Adding Fuel to the Fire

An absence of care and precaution can easily add fuel to the fire and lead you to experiencing an unfortunate accident. To avoid fuel troubles, start by learning the various locations and uses of your motorcycle’s fuses. When changing fuses, always subject it to testing to ensure that it’s in good working condition. Damaged fuses put you at the risk of having your motorcycle’s blow up while you’re on the driver seat.

5. Clean Up Your Act

Believe it or not the mere act of cleaning can significantly reduce future maintenance costs and the chances of having an accident while you’re riding your motorcycle. If you do not like the idea of regular cleaning, just think of it as killing two birds with one stone: cleaning will let you enjoy a safer and cooler ride on your bike!

6. Your Motorcycle’s First Aid Kit

Always have a properly equipped toolbox strapped to your motorcycle. Even the world’s slowest and safest driver can still be an unfortunate victim of an accident so having a toolbox will just be your way of preparing for any eventuality!

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Harley Davidson motorcycles are some of the most durable bikes on the market. They are built to last using high quality materials and craftsmanship. Therefore, the cost of a new Harley may be out of reach for some individuals.

Many people find that purchasing a used motorcycle is a better option. However, it's a good idea to possess a healthy dose of skepticism when purchasing a used bike; particularly from a private seller.

Previously owned motorcycles can be found through private sellers who oftentimes announce their offer via classified ads posted in magazines or online bulletin boards. Used motorcycles can also be found at authorized Harley-Davidson dealerships and public auctions.

# Authorized Harley-Davidson Dealers.

One of the safest ways to purchase a used Harley-Davidson motorcycle is through an authorized dealer. Along with financing options, many dealers offer extended warranties and optional maintenance services. They inspect the bikes for any potential problems and provide buyers with documentation that guarantees the used motorcycle is legal.

To find a list of authorized Harley-Davidson dealers visit www.hogs4sale.com. Click on the state you reside in to locate a dealer in your area.

# Online Classifieds.

There are several reputable websites that offer a wide range of used motorcycles. Ads are placed by private sellers and transactions are made directly from seller to buyer. Both buyers and sellers are required to create an account in order to communicate with one another. Upon registration, buyers can contact sellers via email to obtain information, arrange a meeting, and arrange financial transactions.

Care should be taken when buying or selling through online classifieds. While the majority of people participating are honest, you should thoroughly investigate the motorcycle and its history before handing over your hard earned cash.

Three of the most reputable online classified websites for used motorcycles include: www.CycleClassifieds.us, www.HD4Sale.com, and www.HarleyHunters.com.

# Online Auction Sites.

E-bay is one of the most popular auction sites for used Harley Davidson motorcycles. Certain precautions are required and buyers should thoroughly investigate the seller using E-bay's tools and seller rating system. If you use common sense and adhere to the information provided on E-bay's website, chances are excellent that you will have a safe and happy transaction.

Other used motorcycle auction websites include www.MotorcycleAuctionsOnline.com and Yahoo Shopping Auctions at http://auctions.yahoo.com. Before you begin shopping for a used motorcycle, it's a good idea to educate yourself about the makes and models of motorcycles you are interested in. Do some research to determine the average cost of the motorcycle in your area; investigate insurance and finance rates; and make a list of common defects to look out for.

When purchasing a used motorcycle through online classifieds or auctions, be aware of any claims that sound too good to be true. If you find a potential deal, physically review the bike before purchasing it.

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Maybe you are looking to participate in supercross motorcycle racing or maybe your child. There will come a time when you need to purchase equipment regardless of who is interested in supercross motorcycle racing. The right equipment is essential whether you or your child plans on racing at local dirt bikes track, or just wants to practice out the backyard.

Actually, not every one is an expert in the sport, so it is not easy to purchase the right equipment for you. There’s many people choose to participate in supercross motorbike racing, besides this sports looks fun it is also because they want to be their favorite racer. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to purchase the needed equipment if you are not an avid supercross motorcycle racing fan.

In addition you will also find that you needed safety equipment to an off-road motorcycle. You should be better prepared to start shopping once you have taken the time to better understand supercross motorcycle racing and the equipment that is needed.
You may able to find a local sports store or out door recreational store that carries supercross equipment, depending on where on where you live. You will find that it is often best to shop at an outdoor recreational sport store for off-road bikes. There are many off-road bikes are designed for supercross motorcycle racing, such as; Honda, Yamaha, and Suzuki.

You should be able to purchase the safety equipment whenever you purchase an off-road supercross motorcycle. You should still be able to find supercross safety equipment at most sports stores or out door recreational stores if you already have an off-road motorcycle or made the decision to purchase one privately.

You can not personally try out off-road bikes or safety equipment when you purchase it. That is one of those disadvantages. All most of the equipment needed to participate in supercross motorcycle racing can be considered one size fits all. For children, you still can purchase supercross equipment by online, however you are advised to proceed with caution.

You should be able to successfully go about finding and purchasing supercross motorcycle racing by keeping the above mentioned points in mind.

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Back when folks initially began putting together their own electrical cars they didn't have many cost-effective choices in motors. Regularly the first EVs used surplus aircraft starter-generators as a motor.

the times of plodding electrical vehicles were numbered.
rating in an EV. 'Electric cars are driven by large electrical motors typically rated between 3.5 and twenty-eight h.p.. For those used to gas engines, this may not appear like much power, but the rating systems used for gas engines and electrical motors are so different the numbering system is sort of incomprehensible. Gas engines are rated at their peak hp, electric motors are rated at their continuous hp. The motor installed in Eve is a complicated DC FB1-4001. This is a 9' diameter, 140lb series wound DC motor. I bought is back in 1995 for our first EV and, as long as we don't abuse it, the motor should last for decades. The one part that wears out, commutator brushes, typically last eighty thousand miles and are pretty straightforward to replace.
On the first EV I failed to tighten one of the motor-transmission adaptor set screws and over a period of five years the adaptor worked its way back into the motor faceplate and wore away some of the metal. In the process it damaged the bearing. I found a local electric motor shop to replace it for $100, including parts and work.
You will find more details on our Mazda 626 motor and adaptor page. Most EVs use series wound motors, but you may pick up permanent magnet and AC motors, even experimental wheel center motors.

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The most important safety riding gears that you should wear is motorcycle helmets. It’s used as protective gears for the head to avoid severe injuries brought about accidents. Basically, the motorcycle helmets protect the head, skull or brain. There are many riders that not in favor of wearing this safety gears, that make it very controversial compared to the rest of motorcycle apparel. However, as for me, I will never compromise my safety by not wearing a good helmet.

Besides protection your head from critical injuries, the thing that you must also consider in purchasing a motorcycle helmets is comfort to use. Helmet must make you feel safe yet comfy. You can have the fiber glass shell helmet if you want your helmet to be high-impact resistant and durable. Safety and comfort liners can also be restored to in order to have a cooler ride.

There are different kinds of motorcycle helmets. They are full face helmets, half face helmets or open face helmets, and hybrid helmets. Full face helmets are identifiable because of their protection around the chin thus, face, and all parts of your head. Half face helmet, this motorcycle helmets protects the side of the face and the ears. Often, its visors are detachable. The drawback of these helmets is that it offers no protection for the chin. Hybrid helmets, this helmet can be opened on the chin part. More over, it is advantageous to those who wear glasses.

The kind of motorcycle helmet that gives maximum protection for your head is that of a full-face helmet. These kind of motorcycle helmets recommended by manufacturers, professional riders and testing authorities. Nevertheless, other kinds of helmet likes half face helmet, open face helmet are also good provided they pass the DOT or SNELL testing standards. The DOT and SNELL are two most trusted helmets testing authorities in the United States.

The DOT helmets testing authorities has a set of standards for motorcycle helmets. When buying a helmet, you need to look for the DOT logo on the helmet, usually at the back of your helmet. The helmet should also have a label that includes the manufacturer’s name, date of manufacture, size, model and materials.

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Motorbikes are becoming a more and more popular method of commuting in cities throughout the UK as roads become grid-locked with cars, trucks, buses and roadworks! Yet motorbikes still manage to weave their way through traffic and reach their destination on time - highlighting another benefit that biking has in comparison to driving a car. Not only can a motorbike traverse spaces that would be impossible in a car, motorbikes are also cheaper to maintain, have better fuel economy and it is much easier to find parking spaces in busy areas. In 2006 there were over 1.1million motorbikes registered in the UK, a figure which has gradually grown as popularity for biking rises.

In the UK, it is a legal requirement to be insured when driving on public roads. So, whether you’re a commuter who uses a motorbike to squeeze past gridlocked cars to get to your work on time, or a recreational rider exploring the UK’s country roads at the weekends, you’ll need adequate insurance cover to keep yourself and others protected while on the road.

However, it's not only when driving a motorbike that you need motorbike insurance. Due to the design and size of motorbikes, they can be stolen and removed by thieves far more easily than a car, and as a result most general insurance companies deem insuring motorbikes as a high risk. However some companies specialise in motorbike insurance and appreciate that this is not necessarily the case. In fact, providing the owner implements some basic security measures a motorbike can be as low risk to own as a car.

For example, motorbikes should be parked in well lit areas and the frame should be secured to a fixed object with a sturdy security chain. To further deter would-be thieves, fit an approved immobiliser to prevent the engine being started without the key, and install a Thatcham approved alarm. You could also have a tracking device fitted to help the Police track your motorbike in the event it should it be taken.

Owners should also buy an ultraviolet pen to mark their motorbike with personal details and keep a copy of the serial number of their motorbike, so that if their motorbike is stolen it can be traced back to the theives by the authorities. By taking precautions such as these, you can reduce your motorbike insurance premium.

The most common type of insurance chosen by owners is a comprehensive policy. This level of cover ensures that in the event of an accident the policy holder will be fully insured for the market value of their motorbike, as well as the repair cost of any damage caused to a third party by the policy holder. Some policies even cover policy holders for personal claims against them, which in today's litigious climate is certainly a comforting safeguard. This ensures that if you are unfortunate enough to have an accident, you won't have to cope with a huge financial burden too.

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The economy has everyone in a position to look for ways to save money. Well this is one time that you can save money by spending money. Go out and look at some 50cc scooters and after you spend that small upfront investment, you are going to be amazed at how much extra cash is in your bank account.


As the cost of gas goes up, filling that monster that you drive around in is costing you a small fortune. Figuring that the average car gets about 20-25 MPG, you could be filling up your tank as many as 3 or 4 times a week. At $50 or more a fill, it gets pretty pricey. Wouldn’t you rather fill up your ride once a week and only spend about $15 to do so? With a 50cc scooter, you are going to get anywhere from 80-100 MPG and that means a lot less money being spent at the pump.

How aggravated do you get when you cannot find a parking spot anywhere? Maybe it is a quick run to the store or you are just going over to a friend’s house. If you live in the city, you may be parking blocks away and possibly even have to pay for your spot. Do you realize how small of a space a 50cc scooter can fit into?

Another great thing about the 50cc scooter is how easy they are to weave in and out of traffic. You don’t have that luxury when you are driving around in your BMW. You just get to wait in that long line like everyone else and watch the minutes and hours tick away on your watch. Wouldn’t it be nice to get some of that time back?

While these are some of the reasons, there are plenty of other ones as well. Think about the lower insurance rate that you are going to have to pay and how about the time that you will save because of some of the things we mentioned above. Lose your frustrations and save a few bucks in the process by merely traveling around the city on a 50cc scooter.

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